January 6, 2009 | Hong Kong

Weather: 20 °C
Few clouds

Issue #764: The Fitness Issue

French Haute Cuisine

Petrus - This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The decor is opulent—think chateau chic, with crystal chandeliers and swags of curtains, but with stunning views of the harbor—and the ambiance luxurious, hushed and formal. The food is French haute cuisine, with no fusion flourishes or contemporary re-imaginings, and the ingredients are flown in from France. There are more than 1,000 choices on the wine list, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. Jacket required.
56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590

Spoon by Alain Ducasse
When Michelin-starred celebrity chef Alain Ducasse opens a restaurant, expectations are high. The space is gorgeous, with a fabulous view almost at water level, and a ceiling installation of 550 Murano glass spoons. The wine cellar near the entrance boasts more than 3,000 bottles of Old and New World wines. The menu is pick-and-mix, allowing you to create a unique meal from the range of entrees (the steak is superb), sauces and accompanying vegetables. The food ranges from transcendent to surprisingly rustic, and the service is always outstanding. Can’t decide what to order? Go for the Sexy Spoon taster menu, available in six or eight courses.
InterContinental HongKong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2256

Caprice
Splurge on world-class cuisine at this French restaurant headed by executive chef Vincent Thierry, formerly of Parisian three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Cinq. It’s not just the refined French food that will win you over. The gorgeous interior design includes crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows with glorious harbor views and a glowing walkway past the huge open kitchen. There are private rooms and a chef’s table for those who are willing to really push the boat out. Service is near flawless and a sommelier steers you through the 250 wines on the list. Relaxed atmosphere, amazing food and a heart-stopping bill: in short, the sort of place you should try at least once before you die.
Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon   
French super chef Joel Robuchon hates the term “haute cuisine.” Instead the Gault Millau “Chef of the Century” emphasizes the simplicity and authenticity of his food. Each dish is wrought with exquisite finesse and precision, an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen, the centerpiece of every L’Atelier from New York to Tokyo. The results are extravagant in every possible dimension except size. The food is seriously rich yet brimming with freshness and a sense of taste long-lost from other, similarly presented fare. Favorites on our visit were the caramelized quail with foie gras, lamb from Sisteron, and Robuchon’s signature mashed potatoes, with as much butter and cream as potato.
Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, Central, 2166-9000

Le Petit Paris   
Le Petit Paris may slip under the radar, nestled away on the second floor of the IFC, but what a handy idea to serve haute cuisine right next to haute couture. Everything here is fancy, and though the staff isn’t snobby enough to be French, they’re certain au fait. The extensive menu makes choosing a chore, but the waiters aren’t shy with suggestions and they know what they’re talking about. Every course was delightful and worth savoring. It’s popular with business types—a perfect place to show off Hong Kong on the company dime, thanks to the beautifully framed view of the harbor (book if you want a window table).
Shop 2076, IFC Mall, Central, 2805-5293

Le Tire Bouchon   
One of the oldest independent restaurants in Hong Kong, this is a French restaurant with French staff and plenty of French clientele—always a good sign. Lace curtains, candlelight, double bass in the corner, this place is cute and the food is authentic. Go with your waiter’s recommendations and you’re likely to have a fabulous meal. Private rooms available.
45 Graham St., Central, 2523-5459

Gaddi’s
Where else can you dine to the strains of a live chamber orchestra? This is the finest of dining in a formal room with chandeliers, unparalleled service, and an endless wine list. You might splash out on the chef’s table in the kitchen, or try the surprisingly affordable set lunch. Everything is delicious and delicate. Jackets required for men.
The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui,
2315-3171