
Outlets & Markets
Baby Outlet - This store stocks export children’s wear at 50 percent off the manufacturer’s suggested price, as well as an extensive range of products for babies and parents, including bedding and strollers. Baby Outlet only accepts cash and you’ll need to bring your own shopping bag. Room 602B, Causeway Bay Commercial Building, 1-13 Sugar St., Causeway Bay, 2890-4110, www.mamabebe.com.hk.
Citygate
The only outlet mall in Hong Kong, Citygate offers a comprehensive shopping experience for fashionistas and families. The five-story center houses everyone from Benetton and Burberry to Polo Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Tam, plus home accessories and children’s wear at up to 70 percent off retail prices. There’s also plenty of parking, a cinema and a recently revamped food court. 20 Tat Tung Rd., Tung Chung, Lantau, 2109-2933, www.citygateoutlets.com.hk.
Bookazine Outlet
Thousands of books are published every year, but what happens to the old titles? They get sent to places like the Bookazine Outlet underneath the escalators on Hollywood Road. This new store sells out-of-date books for as little as $5 each and offers promotions such as five books for $100. 2/F, Winning House, 28 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2525-7792, www.bookazine.com.hk.
Gold Coast Montmarte
For an afternoon of shopping and sweeping sea views, head to Hong Kong’s version of the Gold Coast. Located along the waterfront, Montmarte is set in the Mediterranean-themed Gold Coast Marina Magic Shopping Mall. The Art Promenade features more than 80 kiosks showcasing arts and crafts. Stop by on a Sunday afternoon to enjoy performances by professional and amateur entertainers. Open Friday to Sunday from noon to 10pm. Hong Kong Gold Coast, 1 Castle Peak Rd., Castle Peak Bay.
IKEA Warehouse
Everyone’s favorite Scandinavian furniture store has a warehouse that offers even lower prices on everything you need for home. The items may not be in perfect condition, but certainly give you value for money. Ikea also offers a delivery and pick-up service for items bought at the warehouse, but sadly, no meatballs.
1/F, Jumbo Plaza, 6 Choi Fai St., Sheung Shui, 3125-0888.
Joyce Star Candle Factory
Stocking candles in every shape and size, including solid pillars, tapers and soy-blend products, this outlet also has a range of aromatic candles and accessories, including incense burners, oil burners, potpourri and candleholders. All candles are made from high-quality paraffin and natural fragrances. Room 501-02, 5/F, Honour Industrial Centre, 6 Sun Yip St., Chai Wan, 2889-8979.
Joyce Warehouse
Find sought-after brands like Anna Sui, Vivienne Westwood, Giorgio Armani, Chloe and more at discounts of 30 to 70 percent off retail prices. Just remember you’ll need patience to hunt around for good deals. 21/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2814-8313.
Kam Tin Red Brick House
Red Brick House is an indoor market featuring a variety of one-of-a-kind products under one roof. Here you’ll find export-quality housewares, artistic handicrafts, garden-fresh flowers and much more at unbelievably low prices. The market is about seven minutes’ walk from exit B of the MTR West Rail line’s Kam Sheung Road station and has ample parking. Open Friday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm. Tze Tong Tsuen, Kam Tin, Yuen Long.
Shiu Shing Hong
For serious aromatherapy enthusiasts, Shiu Shing Hong carries a wide range of essential oils at wholesale prices. The collection of discount products also includes essential-oil blends and dyes. Most items come in large bottles, so you can pass on the good values to your friends. This is a great place if you know exactly what you’re looking for, or if you’re looking for a shopping exerience at an old-style Hong Kong store. G/F, 130A Jervois St., Sheung Wan, 2544-5964.
Open Air Markets
Check out local artisans, shop for organic produce, and enjoy stalls and activities for the whole family. Discovery Bay Market: Dec 7, Discovery Bay Piazza Area. Pok Fu Lam Market: Dec 14, The Podium, Cyberport. 10am–5pm. Details: www.openairhk.com.
Towel Store
If you’re looking for high-quality but extremely cheap towels, head straight to this store in Wan Chai. The tiny space is filled with hotel-quality towels and dressing gowns at bargain-basement prices. Call ahead to make sure they are open or just try your luck. Room 2, 1/F, Kelly House, 6-14 Gresson St., Wan Chai, 2865-6378.
Pantry Magic
This superb kitchen supply shop buys its stock directly from factories in China, resulting in prices reduced by 30 to 40 percent. Here you’ll find everything you need to equip your kitchen, including harder-to-find utensils, baking pans and dishes, barbecue accessories and kitchen appliances as well as cookbooks. All products are guaranteed for life. G/F, 25 Lok Ku Rd., Central, 2504-0688.
French Haute Cuisine
Petrus - This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The decor is opulent—think chateau chic, with crystal chandeliers and swags of curtains, but with stunning views of the harbor—and the ambiance luxurious, hushed and formal. The food is French haute cuisine, with no fusion flourishes or contemporary re-imaginings, and the ingredients are flown in from France. There are more than 1,000 choices on the wine list, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. Jacket required.
56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590
Spoon by Alain Ducasse
When Michelin-starred celebrity chef Alain Ducasse opens a restaurant, expectations are high. The space is gorgeous, with a fabulous view almost at water level, and a ceiling installation of 550 Murano glass spoons. The wine cellar near the entrance boasts more than 3,000 bottles of Old and New World wines. The menu is pick-and-mix, allowing you to create a unique meal from the range of entrees (the steak is superb), sauces and accompanying vegetables. The food ranges from transcendent to surprisingly rustic, and the service is always outstanding. Can’t decide what to order? Go for the Sexy Spoon taster menu, available in six or eight courses.
InterContinental HongKong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2256
Caprice
Splurge on world-class cuisine at this French restaurant headed by executive chef Vincent Thierry, formerly of Parisian three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Cinq. It’s not just the refined French food that will win you over. The gorgeous interior design includes crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows with glorious harbor views and a glowing walkway past the huge open kitchen. There are private rooms and a chef’s table for those who are willing to really push the boat out. Service is near flawless and a sommelier steers you through the 250 wines on the list. Relaxed atmosphere, amazing food and a heart-stopping bill: in short, the sort of place you should try at least once before you die.
Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
French super chef Joel Robuchon hates the term “haute cuisine.” Instead the Gault Millau “Chef of the Century” emphasizes the simplicity and authenticity of his food. Each dish is wrought with exquisite finesse and precision, an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen, the centerpiece of every L’Atelier from New York to Tokyo. The results are extravagant in every possible dimension except size. The food is seriously rich yet brimming with freshness and a sense of taste long-lost from other, similarly presented fare. Favorites on our visit were the caramelized quail with foie gras, lamb from Sisteron, and Robuchon’s signature mashed potatoes, with as much butter and cream as potato.
Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, Central, 2166-9000
Le Petit Paris
Le Petit Paris may slip under the radar, nestled away on the second floor of the IFC, but what a handy idea to serve haute cuisine right next to haute couture. Everything here is fancy, and though the staff isn’t snobby enough to be French, they’re certain au fait. The extensive menu makes choosing a chore, but the waiters aren’t shy with suggestions and they know what they’re talking about. Every course was delightful and worth savoring. It’s popular with business types—a perfect place to show off Hong Kong on the company dime, thanks to the beautifully framed view of the harbor (book if you want a window table).
Shop 2076, IFC Mall, Central, 2805-5293
Le Tire Bouchon
One of the oldest independent restaurants in Hong Kong, this is a French restaurant with French staff and plenty of French clientele—always a good sign. Lace curtains, candlelight, double bass in the corner, this place is cute and the food is authentic. Go with your waiter’s recommendations and you’re likely to have a fabulous meal. Private rooms available.
45 Graham St., Central, 2523-5459
Gaddi’s
Where else can you dine to the strains of a live chamber orchestra? This is the finest of dining in a formal room with chandeliers, unparalleled service, and an endless wine list. You might splash out on the chef’s table in the kitchen, or try the surprisingly affordable set lunch. Everything is delicious and delicate. Jackets required for men.
The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3171
Alfresco Dining
Boathouse - There’s a touch of California about the Boathouse, perhaps it’s the way your glass of chilled white wine sparkles in the sun, or the shades worn by your fellow diners for a lazy alfresco lunch overlooking the South China Sea. Turns out, the inspiration was Martha’s Vineyard on the East Coast, which explains the nautical theme and Cape Cod blue walls. Whatever. The food is gloriously fishy, with big buckets of mussels, prawns or clams served with your choice of sauce as well as platters of seafood. Meatier fare includes lamb fillets in vegetable crust and roasted pigeon with leg confit parcel on star anise port wine sauce, as well as pastas and classic sides such as fat chips and mashed potato.
86-88 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2813-4467
The Grill at Plateau
For atmosphere, The Grill is exceptional. Located poolside on the podium level of the Grand Hyatt, you can choose to ignore or appreciate the surrounding skyscrapers. Staff are supremely courteous, firing up the barbecue at sunset for a chargrilled buffet feast. Start with a good range of crisp, tangy salads and a seafood spread —lobsters, flower crab, clams and mussels on ice. Grill offerings include tender, juicy meats (sirloin steak and lamb chops) and seafood.
11/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., 2584-7623
Red Bar and Restaurant
The killer view says it all at this classy spot, but bring a fat wallet or your corporate card. This is where to go if you want sophistication with a side serving of jazz. As Red is attached to Pure Fitness in IFC Mall, you know what to expect in terms of food: light, refreshing and rather health nutty. There’s an abundance of seafood, towers of high-fiber salads and meat from the grill, including duck, lamb and NY strips. Everything appears to be figure-friendly with an emphasis on protein, and the occasional naughty helping of fries or onion rings.
4/F, Podium, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, 8129-8882
Gaia
What’s not to like? Excellent Italian cuisine, a charming alfresco terrace set among lush trees on an Italianate piazza, and when the going gets too hot, there’s an equally pleasant contemporary interior with Ferrari-red seating and bar. The antipasti buffet is fast becoming a legend at lunchtime.
G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2167-8200
Saigon at Stanley
Book a table on the terrace for an uninterrupted view of Stanley Bay and Lamma. The food is always good, but our favorites are the steamed pork and black mushroom ravioli, the green papaya and beef salad, and the crispy soft-shell crab with salt and pepper. Order what you like, you won’t go wrong.
2/F-3/F, Stanley Beach Villa, 90 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2899-0999
Sauce
This restaurant has what most people come to Sai Kung for: alfresco dining in the main square and good food. Try the fresh pasta with lobster, the tuna ravioli and the sangria. Some dishes are plate-lickingly delicious and although not every dish is perfect, you are sure to have a decent meal.
9 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung, 2791-2348
Spices
Spices has an enviable location spilling out onto the grassy terrace of The Repulse Bay, with teak tables and umbrellas overlooking one of the finest views in Hong Kong. It’s devoted to bringing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East” to its customers. You might feel a bit ambivalent about its “exotic” menu, but you will likely come back just because it’s such a fine place to be.
G/F The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2821
The Quarterdeck Club
A decent restaurant right on the Fragrant Harbour—with the waft of meat and seafood adding the “fragrant” part. It’s a big, stylish place with panoramic views, huge patio and terraces and large fans manufacturing a sea breeze when nature fails. Lit by a huge skylight, the restaurant seats up to 250 people, with a private dining area for up to 40. Neptune reigns supreme and a popular order is the towering seafood platter of grilled and chilled lobster, mussels, king prawns, oysters, baby octopus, calamari and smoked salmon. The menu also features an extensive range of vegetarian dishes but we prefer the good-value steaks with sauce, vegetables, olive oil pommes puree, braised Romaine hearts, roasted lardons (cubes of bacon), shallots and jus.
G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King St., 2827-8882
The Verandah
Ah, The Verandah. One of the last colonial-style dining rooms left in Hong Kong, The Verandah is suitably grand from the friendly but formal service to the paneled mahogany décor. It’s a wonderful, sun-soaked venue for weekend lunches, with a bright and airy dining room and outdoor terrace. The Sunday brunch buffet is one of the best in town: crunchy Caesar salads and fresh seafood vie for attention with squid-ink pasta, Alaskan lobster, marinated scallops and milk-fed lamb. The innovative dishes demand at least two hours of solid eating. Reservations essential.
109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2822
Markets
Bird Garden - Replacing the old Bird Market, Bird Garden has about 70 stalls around a series of courtyards where owners still “walk” their caged pets. Birds are bought and sold here, including mynahs, parakeets and cockatiels. You’ll also find intricately crafted bamboo cages, porcelain feeding dishes and live crickets, grasshoppers and tiny snakes. Yuen Po Street, Prince Edward.
Cat Street
This little street just below Hollywood Road is a flea-market regular’s dream. Buyers should beware of so-called antiques, however, as some are fakes. Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan.
Discovery Bay Market
A great place to check out local artisans and new and interesting products. Operates 10am-5pm on November 2 and December 7. Visit www.openairhk.com for details. Discovery Bay Piazza area, Discovery Bay.
Stanley Market
Something of a tourist trap, Stanley Market is worth visiting for interesting gifts, sports and casual wear, and silk and leather goods. It’s not the cheapest market anymore, but its seaside
location makes for a pleasant day out. Stanley Market Road, Stanley.
Fa Yuen Street
Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Further south, it turns into Sneaker Street, where you’ll find top sneaker brands and rare releases. MTR Prince Edward Station, exit B2.
Goldfish Market
Goldfish are said to stabilize feng shui, making them popular pets in Hong Kong. These two Mong Kok streets teem with fish in tanks or plastic bags stapled to the stall walls. Bute and Tung Choi streets, Mong Kok.
Graham Street Wet Market
The last open-air market in Central and the oldest existing street market in Hong Kong, Graham Street is chock full of fresh, local fare. The government recently announced plans to demolish the century-old buildings and replace them with hulking skyscrapers. Get in quick to experience one of Hong Kong’s last great retail institutions. Graham Street, Central.
Jade Market
This tented market houses hundreds of stalls, selling every type of jade as jewelry, charms and figurines. Semi-transparent jade is considered the best quality, while cloudy, opaque jade is worth less. Go early and bargain hard. Kansu and Battery streets, Yau Ma Tei.
Jardine’s Bazaar
Little Jardine’s Bazaar is jam-packed with cheap, fun things to buy. Geared towards the young and fashion-conscious, it has the latest catwalk trends for just a few dollars. You’ll also find loads of cool toys and trinkets. Jardine’s Crescent, Causeway Bay.
Ladies Market
Find cheap fashion, bags, trinkets, racy underwear, costume jewelry, dog toys, vegetable peelers, you name it, in this outdoor market. Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok.
Mong Kok Market
From pajamas to street snacks, kids fashion to women’s accessories and stalls heaving with fresh produce—you name it, Mong Kok Market has it. The fruit and veggies here are among the freshest in Hong Kong—and the cheapest. Rest up at the nearby cha chaan teng. Mong Kok Station.
Pok Fu Lam Market
Operating 10am-5pm on October 19, November 16 and December 14, this market is a great outing for the whole family thanks to its many stalls and activities. Visit www.openairhk.com for details. The Podium, Cyberport, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam.
Shau Kei Wan Market
Fishermen and their boats have always made Shau Kei Wan their first port of call, so the waterfront stalls are stocked year-round with the freshest fruits of the sea. Underneath the bright red awnings, you will find a cornucopia of marine life, most of it delivered that morning from the fishing trawlers moored nearby. Kam Wa Street, Shau Kei Wan.
Temple Street Night Market
This busy night market comes alive at around 6pm and sells everything from cheap watches to cute accessories and souvenirs. There’s an entire section devoted to fortunetellers, who can read the future in your palms or face and even some who use birds. MTR Jordan Station, exit A.
Asian Delights
Green T. House - This one-of-a-kind restaurant was started up in Beijing by Chinese artist JinR, who turned the dining space into a functioning art piece with its stark interiors. Everything, from the painted branches hanging from the ceiling to the Chinese screen doors and silk curtains with hand-painted flowers is pure white. It’s quite an intimidating experience just stepping into the restaurant, never mind eating here, but it's well worth overcoming your reservations in order to experience the beautifully presented dishes. We recommend the foie gras dumplings and chili citrus salmon, which is deliciously crispy and crumbly at the same time. Shop 208, The Arcade, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam, 2989-6036
Lian
Mall restaurants have a masterful way of disguising their interiors to make customers forget they’re dining next to a Fancl House. Lian, on the second floor of IFC Mall, is very good at this. You are welcomed by a glowing interior of warm marble, woods and black glass, with a large communal table hosting a small pond in the middle of the intimate dining room. The menu is a modern take on classic Thai and Vietnamese dishes. We started with classic deep-fried prawn cakes and spring rolls, which were decent, but we recommend you skip those for the soft-shelled crab rolls instead. The most impressive item was the Dirty Chili Martini. 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-1117.
Shek O Chinese-Thai Seafood
The ambiance is seaside-casual, with most customers kicking back after expending some energy, whether it’s a group of sweaty hikers just descended from the Dragon’s Back, surfers from Big Wave Bay, or barefoot families still sandy from the beach. The food is decent, and there’s always plenty of it at reasonable prices. Curries, fried-rice offerings and seafood are crowd pleasers, and the tofu dishes are very well done 303 Shek O Village, 2809-4426.
Inagiku Japanese Restaurant
Believe the buzz: the food here is authentic and very, very good. The peaceful, Zen-like atmosphere is enough reason to visit, with an entire wall given over to views of the harbor, a funky bar and teppanyaki stations for a casual meal. We had the set menu, starting with a small bowl of salad leaves and excellent tuna and geoclam sashimi, served on a chilled dish. Then the teppanyaki chefs worked their magic, creating a multi-course meal of salmon, beef and scallion rolls, scallops grilled in the shell, vegetable fried rice, miso soup and a dish of Japanese pickles. The super-fresh ingredients were cooked before our eyes with just oil, salt and pepper. Wonderful. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0600.
Spices
Spices has an enviable location spilling out onto the grassy terrace of The Repulse Bay, with teak tables and umbrellas overlooking one of the finest views in Hong Kong. It’s devoted to bringing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East” to its customers. You might feel a bit ambivalent about its “exotic” menu, but you will likely come back just because it’s such a fine place to be. G/F, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2821.
Sorabol
One of the greatest things about walking into a Korean restaurant is the delicious smell from the open barbecues in the middle of each table—provided no one gets too loaded and scorches their food. The marinated chicken was subtle and flavorful, and the spring onion seafood pancake was the best we’ve tried—stuffed full of seafood and whole spring onions, still sizzling on a hot plate. Service was efficient and unobtrusive. Extra points go to our waitress for replacing the barbecue plate when it got crusty. 17/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2881-6823.
Indonesian 1968
Passed down to a new generation (the original owner’s sons), this long-established Causeway Bay favorite is a fun, funky place with a soothing vibe. The interior is all soft whites and island furniture while ambient tunes play softly in the background. We started with a papaya salad with mixed vegetables, with the spice modified for the Chinese palate, and a platter of sweet chicken and pork satays on a plate designed by the owners. For the main course, we had ayam panggang kecap—grilled chicken with sweet and spicy Javanese sauce—rendang beef curry and lidah semur, a stewed ox tongue with garlic sauce served on a French loaf. The beef curry was delicious and tender, but the ox tongue stole the show—so tender that it fell apart like short ribs. G/F, 28 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-9981. Also located at 2-4 Observatory Court, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2619-1926, www.indonesianrestaurant1968.com.
Rice Paper
The open dining area, which overlooks the harbor and manages to be both muted and elegant, is best for hip young professionals chattering animatedly. Understated beige woods provide a restrained counterpoint to the ornate white woodcarving that dominates the far wall, a rococo vestige of Vietnam’s French-colonial past. The skillfully prepared traditional dishes also reveal traces of a French accent—the lamb curry, herb-crusted and served on the bone, arrived with warm baguettes instead of the usual rice. A cold shredded-chicken salad was dressed with a light, creamy sauce and tossed with lemongrass, fresh mint and cilantro—cool, refreshing flavors on a hot day. Steamed garoupa served in a banana leaf was tender and meaty, although not as juicy as it could have been. Diners have the option of rolling their own rice paper rolls with their favorite ingredients or ordering pre-rolled varieties from the menu; the lightly fried softshell crab rolls arrived standing smartly on end in a disciplined row. The lure of beautifully presented, well-seasoned dishes served in graceful surroundings—and with a harbor view, at modest prices—might just prove irresistible. Shop P413-418, 4/F, World Trade Centre, Causeway Bay. 2890-3975.
Lotus
Lotus is a bar-cum-restaurant with a funky lounge at the entrance and more formal dining in back. Despite the Southeast Asian theme, it is “Oz-tastic” in its origins. The cuisine is Southeast Asian “street food to high street.” In other words, they take the simple dishes and flavors of Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore and add beautiful presentation without losing the origins of the dish. There’s no “fusion”: if it’s an Indonesian dish, so be it. 37-43 Pottinger St., Central, 2543-6290.
Nobu
Believe the hype. This place is mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution. The quality standards of every dish are so stringent and precise we wouldn’t have noticed if Nobuyuki Matsuhisa was serving us personally. But then there he was, with his huge smile and shock of jet-black hair, offering a complimentary bowl of whipped salmon egg emulsion. Awash in ambient amber and rose lighting, Nobu has a stunning floor-to-ceiling view of the harbor, bathed in sunshine by day and glowing with the city lights by night. The blindingly fast chefs create some of the freshest, purest and most innovative Japanese food we’ve ever eaten. It’s a simple concept really; the best, freshest fish in the world flown in by jet mere hours after it was caught, accentuated with just the right light touch of savory/sweet/salty sauces and sides. The sushi is a must, as is the amazing cooked black cod that made Nobu famous. In a word: perfection. 1/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211.
Café Siam
This place is packed at all times thanks to a breezy décor and genuine Thai dishes cooked by genuine Thai cooks with genuine Thai produce, at prices that would have SoHo restaurateurs crying in their caprihinis. This is Bangkok street food at cheap prices and in a convenient location. No wonder it’s always full. G/F, 40-42 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2851-4803.
Megu
The popular Japanese restaurant from New York is also all about organic, seasonal dining. The menu is largely traditional Japanese, though with a modern touch. Don’t miss the grilled smelt shishamo fish with roe flown in from Hokkaido and blue fin toro with avocado and wasabi sauce, ravioli style. Designer Yasumichi Morita has shied away from Japanese minimalism in favor of a striking gold and red design, highlighted by the handmade kimono-patterned ceiling and 88 bamboo lamps from Kyoto, each costing a staggering $10,000. The food: Megu R002-3, 3/F, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3743-1421.
Tokio Joe
Who would expect an upscale Japanese restaurant to be so fun-loving? Tokio Joe is a refreshing departure from the usual formality of Japanese restaurants, with waitresses dressed in black vinyl, although it’s disturbingly dimly lit during the day. The sushi chefs were all trained in Japan and really know their stuff. Don’t-miss dishes include the California roll with soft-shelled crab, kelp-grilled seabass and the tuna salad. And try the sake, which is listed by region and serving suggestion. G/F, 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1889.
Hip Housewares
Aluminium - This is the place for modern design classics, including Eero Aarnio bubble chairs, 1970s Curve lamps, Marimekko fabrics and Philippe Starck’s Ghost chairs. Its four locations are not exactly spacious, but packed with objects of desire. Shop F, G/F, Queen’s Centre, 58-64 Queen’s Rd East, Wan Chai, 2577-4066, www.hk-aluminium.com.
Bookworks
These beautiful handmade notebooks, journals and albums, covered in Chinese brocades and silk, make great gifts for yourself or your loved ones. They’re produced by longtime resident Louise Garnaut. Unit B, 12/F, Dotcom House, 128 Wellington St., Central, 2559-0175, www.bookworks.com.hk.
Flea + Cents
This kooky little shop has a mixture of antiques and quirky mid-century items, including vintage clocks, electronics and office furniture, as well as more modern creations by Dutch and German minimalist designers, including Droog Design. 1/F, 34-38 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2528-0808, www.fleancents.com.
Franc Franc
Funkier than your average shop, this Japanese furniture and home accessories store is just the place for that groovy gift or contemporary furniture piece. Stock changes rapidly but is always intriguing. 2/F, Hang Lung Center, 2-20 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 3427-3366, www.francfranc.com.
G.O.D
G.O.D (Goods of Desire) is the phonetic sound of the Cantonese slang “to live better.” It sells modern furniture, household goods, clothing and accessories with a witty Hong Kong twist, such as Yaumatei-pattern bags, Double Happiness trivets, Chinese newspaper-print mousepads, and triad-print bedlinen. It’s all funky and desirable, moderately priced and attractively displayed, with stock changing seasonally. Also has a few local books and perennially cool Lomo cameras. 2/F, Leighton Centre, Sharp Street East, Causeway Bay, 2890-5555, www.god.com.hk.
Homeless
Homeless is a lifestyle concept store that sells furniture, lighting, designer items and home accessories. With more than 2,000 products in its collection, you will find things that are functional but also fun to use, have beautiful details or simply put a smile on your face. Check out the wall stickers. Branches in Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui. G/F, 29-31 Gough St., Central, 2581-1880, www.homelessconcept.com.
Prints
Who says stationery can’t be fun? This Singaporean chain has several branches in Hong Kong selling funky, high-quality stationery, and has an amazing stock of classy scrapbooks, photo albums, cards, files, boxes, notebooks and notepads in all colors and patterns. Shop 3315, 3/F, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2175-5018, www.prints-international.com.
Tequila Kola
Known for its modern Asian furniture, fabric and home accessories, Tequila Kola stocks a few vintage pieces, including art deco and 1930s and 40s Spanish chandeliers, and table lamps. As well as this warehouse-style outlet, it has a more convenient, if smaller location in Central. 1/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St.,Ap Lei Chau, 2877-3295, www.tequilakola.com.
Bals Tokyo
A dream for homebodies with an eye for the unusual, Bals Tokyo sells everything you need for the home, from uber-modern furniture to sleek, contemporary espresso makers – all with that distinctively Japanese edge. Shop 1032, Elements Mall, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2302-1961, www.balstokyo.com.
Best Bars for Christmas Drinks
Tivo - With that economic crap-storm still swirling, it looks like we’re missing out on the true spirit of Christmas this year—shopping! No, this year, we’re stuck with boring ol’ togetherness. You may as well make the best of it. Get three or four friends together at Tivo for some mulled wine. You’re sure to see a few more friends passing by, or just grab some strangers and make some new ones. ‘Tis the season.
43-45 Wyndham St., Central, 2116-8055
Peak Bar
It’s cold and it’s practically Christmas. Grab a
glass of the Peak Bar’s traditional mulled wine for a mere $50. Red wine, brandy, cinnamon, cloves, apple, lemon peel and orange all included.
9-13 Shelley St., SoHo, 2140-6877
FINDS
Get your glogg on here. No, it’s not one of the lesser-known hobbits, it’s the Scandinavian version of mulled wine heated and spiced with similar ingredients to the mulled stuff we all know and love, though often with the added touch of almonds and raisins. Tastes like cider!
2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2522-9318
Seaside Dining
Top Deck - What was once a mahjong parlor for the staff of the floating Jumbo Kingdom restaurant is now a gorgeous alfresco destination dining spot. Though the giant restaurant boat is generally considered a tourist trap, the Café Deco Group has created a real gem, where you can munch on jet-fresh oysters and Tasmanian salmon while relaxing in huge lounge chairs. Good for a long Sunday brunch and private parties. The menu covers virtually every corner of the globe, which could be worrisome, except they have a Japanese chef at the massive sushi bar and an Indian cook manning the tandoori oven. Jumbo Floating Restaurant, Aberdeen (boat from Shum Wan Pier), 2552-3331.
Boathouse
There’s a touch of California about the Boathouse—perhaps it’s the way your glass of chilled white wine sparkles in the sun, or the shades worn by your fellow diners for a lazy alfresco lunch overlooking the South China Sea. Turns out, the inspiration was Martha’s Vineyard on the East Coast, which explains the nautical theme and Cape Cod–blue walls. Whatever. The food is gloriously fishy, with big buckets of mussels, prawns or clams served with your choice of sauce as well as platters of seafood. Meatier fare includes lamb fillets and roasted pigeon, as well as pastas and classic sides such as fat chips and mashed potato. Can get lively on weekends. 86-88 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2813-4467.
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant
There’s a reason this Sai Kung institution usually has a queue outside: it’s superb. Think simple sautéed rockfish, lobster sashimi served on dry ice followed by lobster-head soup, mouthwatering garlic shrimp or crab with scallions and ginger. 53 Sai Kung Hoi Pong St., 2791-1195.
Cococabana
This lovely alfresco eatery sits on top of the shower block at Deep Water Bay, giving you a perfect view of the beach and ocean. The menu is ambitious with a focus on dishes from the lava grill. UG/F, Beach Building, Deep Water Bay Beach, Island Rd., Deep Water Bay, 2812-2226.
Hemingway’s by the Bay
A resort-style atmosphere right on the waterfront, with large deck, palm trees and umbrellas. The vibe is laid-back, with pilots on rest days, moms and toddlers by day, returning office workers by night. It’s one of the few places in Hong Kong that can claim to make authentic Key Lime pie and Jamaican jerk chicken and a real Antiguan rum punch. The weekend barbecue buffets are also popular with reggae tunes jammin’ in the background, weather permitting. Shop GO9, Block A, Water Margin, Discovery Bay, 2987-8855.
Pier 7
The Star Ferry’s Pier Seven has been transformed into a laid-back café and bar with an outdoor terrace that provides a breathtaking new angle of the IFC building. With 3,000 square feet of warm woods and metallic Spanish and Italian tiles, it’s all very relaxed, and the periodic chiming of the clock tower’s an excellent reminder that it’s your last round before you miss your ferry. There’s a salad bar as well as a daily carving during lunch. For teatime, try the homemade raisin scones with jam, a glazed lemon meringue pie, or any of their delicious sandwiches with your pint after work, like a mini panini or a classic Caesar wrap. Shop M, Roof Viewing Deck, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry, Central, 2167-8153.
Saigon at Stanley
Book a table on the terrace for an uninterrupted view of Stanley Bay and Lamma. The food is always good, but our past favorites include the steamed pork and black mushroom ravioli, the green papaya and beef salad, and the crispy soft-shell crab with salt and pepper. Order what you like, you won’t go wrong. 2/F-3/F, Stanley Beach Villa, 90 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2899-0999.
The Quarterdeck Club
A decent restaurant right on the Fragrant Harbor—with the waft of meat and seafood adding the “fragrant” part. It’s a big, stylish place with panoramic views, huge patio and terraces and large fans manufacturing a sea breeze when nature fails. Lit by a huge skylight, the restaurant seats up to 250 people, with a private dining area for up to 40. Neptune reigns supreme and a popular order is the towering seafood platter of grilled and chilled lobster, mussels, king prawns, oysters, baby octopus, calamari and smoked salmon. The menu also features an extensive range of vegetarian dishes but we prefer the good-value steaks. G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King St., 2827-8882.
Serviced Apartments
The Bauhinia - A stone’s throw from the International Finance Centre, Bauhinia offers more than 100 one- and two-bedroom apartments, each fully furnished with cooking facilities, household appliances and cable TV. Cleaning service and change of towels and bedding twice a week. Minimum stay is one month and rental includes management fee, government rates, local telephone calls, electricity, water and gas charges and free use of the building fitness room. 19-120 Connaught Rd., Central, 2156-3000. www.apartments.com.hk.
Central 88 & Happy Valley 88
Whether it’s a studio, one- or two-bedroom suite, the apartments are fully furnished in contemporary Chinese style with unlimited broadband Internet access, telephone, fax, cable TV, DVD player and hi-fi system. Maid service, laundry, dry cleaning and 24-hour security are provided. Room size ranges from 440sqft to 1,430sqft, and rental available by the day or as a monthly package, with airport limousine pick up on arrival. Happy Valley 88 is the group’s new apartment block. It has one-bedroom apartments (620 sqft-660 sqft) decorated with contemporary and antique Chinese pieces, each with a view of the racecourse or hillside. See website for all facilities. 88 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 3472-2288. www.88servicedapartments.com.
De Ricou Serviced Apartments
Catering to small families, couples and executives, De Ricou has 68 fully furnished duplex suites for short-and long-term lease in The Repulse Bay. Ranging in size from 2,020sqft to 2,243sqft, each unit has a living room, dining room and fully equipped kitchen on the entry floor and an upper level with two bedrooms. Balconies have stunning views of the South China Sea. Services include satellite and cable TV, broadband Internet access, 24-hour security, daily maid service (Mon-Fri), dry cleaning and laundry, and 20 percent discount at The Verandah and Spices restaurants. Daily air-conditioned shuttle bus between The Repulse Bay and Central. Complex has a covered car park, supermarket, bank, drugstore, doctors’ practice, physiotherapy and dental centers, day spa, florist, dry cleaners, shops and clubhouse. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2879. www.therepulsebay.com.
Hanlun Habitats
Choose from Hanlun Habitats’ studio and one-bedroom apartments in four different Mid-Levels buildings: Daisy Court, Lily Court I & II and Peach Blossom. Minimum stay is one month and rent includes utilities, service charges and government charges, while broadband Internet access, cable and satellite TV are provided free of charge. Apartments are air-conditioned and fully furnished with modern European furniture and a fully equipped kitchen. Same-day laundry service available. Corporate members have access to Pure Fitness and California Fitness health club facilities. 21/F Winway Building, 50 Wellington St., Central, 2868-0168. www.hanlunhabitats.com.
Hong Kong Gold Coast
Twenty-five minutes from Central, the Gold Coast is set amid palm trees, exotic flowers and lush greenery on a long beach. Two- and three-bedroom apartments are 700sqft-1,138sqft in size, and considerably cheaper than units in town. Rents include management fees, government rates, 24-hour security and maintenance, and furniture, but not utilities or carpark. Units are cleaned and linen changed twice a week. Shopping mall, supermarket, restaurants, dry cleaners, clinic, the Gold Coast Hotel and Yacht Club are nearby. 1 Castle Peak Rd., Castle Peak Bay, Tuen Mun, 2457-0789. www.goldcoast.com.hk.
Ice House
Located next to Lan Kwai Fong and the Foreign Corespondents’ Club, the Ice House offers studio apartments at daily or monthly rates. Each has a fully equipped kitchenette and shower equipped with cable and satellite television. Service includes 24-hour security, daily change of towels and daily maid service (except Sundays and public holidays). 38 Ice House St., Central, 2836-7333. www.icehouse.com.hk.
Jia
Asia’s first Philippe Starck-designed boutique hotel apartment has 54 studios and suites featuring marble kitchens and bathrooms. There’s a duplex 1,570sqft penthouse tower, a conference room, two restaurants, complimentary gym pass and access to exclusive bars around town. Apartments available by the night. 1-5 Irving St., Causeway Bay. 3196-9000. www.jiahongkong.com.
Ovolo
Two minutes from Lan Kwai Fong, Ovolo offers fully furnished one-bedroom boutique serviced apartments. Each unit has designer sofas and dining suites, Frette linen, queen feather bed, ample storage, an electronic safe, IDD telephones with call forwarding capabilities, broadband access, cable TV, a 42-inch plasma TV with DVD, VCR and surround sound home theater in living room and similar in bedroom. Services include 24-hour security, a welcome pack, daily room servicing, daily fresh towels, linen changed twice a week, in-house grocery delivery, complimentary gym membership and newspaper, laundry service and airport limousine service. 2 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 3105-2600 / 2165-1082. www.ovolo.com.hk, www.home2home.hk.
Best New Bars in Kowloon
Living Room - The recently opened W Hotel in West Kowloon has put its bar next to the check in area and called it the Living Room. While the super-high ceiling and vast windows might not feature in most Hong Kong abodes, W has tried to install homely details into the otherwise luxurious bar, including magazine racks, comfy couches, books and chess sets. The final outcome? It’s chic but cozy, and has interesting new cocktails every season.
6/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3717-2222.
Room One
The old Miramar Hotel’s successful transformation into The Mira—a Hotel Babylon-esque boutique property—owes much to its new bar, Room One. It’s in a class of its own, with stylish décor, with cool tunes, a sultry purple palate and swoon-inducing lighting. It serves classy drinks including super-yummy sake cocktails, and the booths along one side of the wall also give a little privacy for late-night conversations.
G/F, The Mira, 118-103 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5888.
Zaza
A gigantic, modern retro-style club located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, Zaza is a great spot to stop by for a drink before or after a meal at one of the fine Japanese restaurants housed in the same building. The décor screams luxury and space, with two bars and chandeliers dripping with crystals. Head to the outdoor terrace with its green patio if you’d like some fresh air—this is the time of year for alfresco drinks.
3/F, Toy House, 100 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3171-8311.



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