Bicho - This great little yakitori restaurant is on the 26th floor of a commercial building. But the altitude sickness is worth it—the yakitori is excellent and the minimalist décor makes the tiny space seem airy. Most of the food offered is barbecued on skewers and in small portions¬—go greedy and try everything. It’s all outstanding—the veggies juicy, the meats aromatic and the sauces just gorgeous. There’s a decent selection of sake, which rounded out our meal perfectly. Final thought? Even the ventilation system is great, so you won’t leave smelling greasy. 26/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 523-527 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2838-7022.

Irori
This hidden gem is for Japanese foodies in the know. We went pretty late, and the camaraderie of the Japanese chef (who speaks fluent Cantonese) and the sushi counter boys was charming to behold as sophisticated jazz floated through the restaurant. The menu is extensive, and there is a huge variety of small dishes to go with your sake if you’re not craving a full dinner. We ordered wafu-yukke (Japanese-style “Korean beef carpaccio”), which wasn’t beef at all, but chunky strips of raw tuna with thin slivers of cucumber coated with a sweet sauce. Together with toasted sesame seeds, the contrasting textures were utterly enjoyable. 2/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2838-5939.

Kenjo
The description “authentic” gets thrown around a lot, but this tiny izakaya is the real deal thanks to the sheer freshness and simplicity of its dishes. Just off the brash glare of Minden Avenue, Kenjo serves up excellent sashimi and sushi alongside simple but incredibly well executed fare such as udon, broiled snacks and delicate seafood arrangements. There’s a refreshing lack of overly precious presentation, serving up clean, light flavors, with fish so fresh it’ll convert the last of the non-raw eaters. Try the chef’s tasting menu, an off-the-beaten-track selection of stuff you’d never figure out on your own.
G/F, 30 Minden Ave., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-8307.

Nobu
Believe the hype. This place is mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution. The quality standards of every dish are so stringent and precise we wouldn’t have noticed if Nobuyuki Matsuhisa was serving us personally. But then there he was, with his huge smile and shock of jet-black hair, offering a complimentary bowl of whipped salmon egg emulsion. Awash in ambient amber and rose lighting, Nobu has a stunning floor-to-ceiling view of the harbor, bathed in sunshine by day and glowing with the city lights by night. The blindingly fast chefs create some of the freshest, purest and most innovative Japanese food we’ve ever eaten. It’s a simple concept really; the best, freshest fish in the world flown in by jet mere hours after it was caught, accentuated with just the right light touch of savory/sweet/salty sauces and sides. The sushi is a must, as is the amazing cooked black cod that made Nobu famous. In a word: perfection. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2340.

Zuma
Judging a fancy restaurant mostly comes down to sniffing out the gimmicks, so it was easy to enter Zuma carrying a mental list of skeptical questions. Is the izakaya-style menu just an excuse to serve snooty-small portions? Does the sake really merit its own label? But by the time we sampled the strangely delicious almond tofu dessert, our questions seemed rather nitpicky. Our knowledgeable waiter recommended a standout yuzu seabass sashimi starter, tuna tartare with paper-thin fried lotus crisps, spicy beef medallions and grilled taraba king crab legs. As for the sake, Zuma’s tipple was sweet and mellow. 5/F-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

WasabiSabi
This sleek bar-restaurant is perennially fashionable: check out your fellow diners for this season’s must-haves, gossip-column players and models galore. Waiters guide first-timers through the maze of mirrors, dangling beads and catwalks to the dining room. The food is to die for: a mixture of classic, generously sliced sashimi, sushi and grilled dishes, as well as a few of the chef’s own innovations, and all presented like works of art. The fish is flown in daily from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market. 13/F, Food Forum, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-0009.

Rokkaku
This discreet matchbook-sized place tucked away in a cul-de-sac serves some of the best sashimi on Hong Kong Island. The service is attentive, and the orders are tailor-made—we asked the chef to give us his best and he came back with a combination of 12 kinds of the freshest, sweetest seasonal sashimi, including ankimo (monkfish liver), mackerel and Japanese flying fish, which were all superb. The less adventurous can take heart in the fact that the usual suspects such as toro and sea urchin were also of the highest quality. We felt like the happiest people in the world, though the delicious homemade strawberry wine may have had a hand in that. 6 Kwong Ming St., Wan Chai, 2866-8166.

Yagura
We love Yagura. This nice little Japanese restaurant in the basement of Eaton Hotel is not your ordinary hotel eatery—prices are reasonable and the vibe is welcoming and down-to-earth. Dark wood furniture and partitions offer privacy and a traditional Japanese vibe. The sashimi platter was of excellent quality, the hot dishes flavorful and not oily. Don’t forget to try their own brand of sake—it’s light, pure and great served cold. Good prices, nice service and great food on the “dark side.” LG/F, Eaton Hotel, 380 Nathan Rd., Jordan, 2710-1010.

Green Concepts - Green Concepts stocks over 2,000 products that are key to leading a wholesome life. Besides health foods such as rice milk, organic grains and cold-pressed oils, it sells magnetic mattresses, baby-care items and has a large selection of books and a video rental library, so you can learn the benefits of leading an organic, natural life from the comfort of your own home. 2/F, Prosperous Commercial Building, 54-58 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay, 2882-4848, www.healthshop.com.hk.

Green Dot Dot
With 10 retail locations in Hong Kong, Green Dot Dot offers food that is “Greendotdot organic,” or “Greendotdot healthy” using alternate ingredients such as low-sodium salt. The company is committed to being healthy, environmentally friendly and natural. Their products are not genetically modified, contain no or low amounts of pesticides, and no artificial preservatives, chemical fertilizers or artificial coloring. HOK 23B, Hong Kong Station, 2149-3239, www.greendotdot.com.

Healthy Delight
Originally a distributor of homemade yogurt, Healthy Delight has expanded its selection to include an assortment of food products and supplements. This includes items that are free of wheat, gluten, yeast, dairy or egg. More than two-thirds of their products are also organic. Visit their store in Central, or shop online to stock up on all your healthy living needs. Room 203, Conwell House, 38 Stanley St., Central, 2525-9128, www.healthydelight.net.

Health Gate
Started by a group of parents concerned about finding appropriate foods for their allergic children, Health Gate imports a wide variety of specialty and organic items. Touted as Hong Kong’s premier green-friendly health store, it caters to a wide range of food sensitivities or restrictive diets with gluten- and lactose-free products as well as those suitable for vegans and diabetics. Health Gate’s website also offers recipes, a newsletter and online shopping. 8/F, Hung Tak Building, 106-108 Des Voeux Rd., Central, 2545-2286, www.health-gate.com.

Little Giant
A family-oriented, allergy-friendly shop, Little Giant aims to help customers deal with various food and other allergen sensitivities. Its line of “free from” items runs the gamut from gluten-free pasta to a dairy-free strawberry-shake mix. The store also offers items specifically geared towards raising children with allergies, such as goat’s milk for lactose-intolerant infants. Online shopping available. 15/F, Chung Wai Commercial Building, 447-449 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-3610, www.littlegianthk.com.

Nature’s Village
Nature’s Village provides for the health-conscious and ethically concerned customer. It carries a wide range of largely eco-friendly products that includes over 1,200 nutritional and sports supplements as well as an array of imported nutrition bars, such as the popular Clif Bars. Nature’s Village has seven locations throughout Hong Kong and a website listing many of its supplements, meal replacements and other products on offer. 38 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 3107-0817, www.naturesvillage.com.hk.

Organic Farmers’ Market
This twice-a-week farmers’ market is the place to buy organic produce from local growers. It’s also a call to help reduce carbon dioxide emissions, by supporting the purchase of locally grown produce as opposed to vegetables that have been shipped in from around the world. The market is held every Sunday from 11am to 5pm and Wednesday from 1pm to 6pm. Customers are asked to bring their own shopping bags. Central Star Ferry Pier, 2488-0602, www.hofa.org.hk.

Organic Gardens
Delivered to Lan Kwai Fong each morning
from the company’s farm in the New Territories, Organic Gardens’ vegetables are among the freshest in town. Besides vegetables, the company sells organic products such as wine and dairy-free cookies all over the world. They can be found at Organic Gardens’ small group of shops and at supermarkets such as Park n Shop or Jusco. Organic Gardens also provides education on the benefits of organic agriculture and consumption. 1/F, 38 Cochrane St., Central, 2815-3642.

ThreeSixty
ThreeSixty’s mission is to provide organic, natural and wholesome food, stocking many popular organic brands. For those who don’t have the time or energy to shop and cook at home, the food hall on the upper level boasts everything from gelato to a burrito bar. Check the website for shopping lists organized by specific restrictive diets, and for recipes created by chefs who work with organic and healthy foods. You can also shop the smaller ThreeSixty store in Kowloon, or place delivery orders by phone. 3-4/F, The Landmark, Central, 2111-4480, www.threesixtyhk.com.

1/5 Nuevo - This is not a fusion restaurant. No, it’s the good ol’ days of one restaurant, two cuisines, in this case French and Spanish. Paella sits alongside duck confit on the menu but, thankfully, not on the plate. The bread is astounding, cooked fresh and piping-hot in a clay pot. Follow it up with the satisfying tapas, and entrees that include possibly the best mussels in the city.
G/F, 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2529-2300

FINDS
For something totally different, try the Scandinavian food at FINDS (the name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden), which serves excellent fish, game and meat dishes. It’s a chic place decked out in icy shades of blue and white, and the popular bar is busy early and late when local DJs hit the decks.
2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Lan Kwai Fong, 2522-9318

Grissini
A fabulous northern Italian restaurant with fantastic service, tasteful decor, top-notch cuisine and peerless wine service. The food is so good it’s hard to envisage anyone leaving the restaurant anything but content. Don’t miss the grissini breadsticks.
2/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7933

M at the Fringe
A local legend since 1989, when it was one of the first independent European restaurants in the city, M at the Fringe is special from the gold-ink in the reservations book to the plate-lickingly delicious Pavlova. In between, expect fantastic Continental cooking—Mandarin caviar, decadently delicious crispy suckling pig, slow-cooked lamb—expert service, a romantic atmosphere and a truly memorable evening. No wonder local chefs drop by on their
evenings off.
1/F, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2877-4000

Tapeo
In a neighborhood already crowded with tapas bars, Tapeo distinguishes itself by being the only one where the dining room is wrapped around the open kitchen. The first thing you might notice is a giant leg of ham of bellota-quality ham. Other tapas (all meant to be shared between two) include prawns, a very tender grilled chicken served on a bed of red pepper and garlic sauce, and grilled lamb with mojo verde. The placemat menus, handwritten descriptions on tiled walls and friendly chef all make for a truly welcoming and casual atmosphere. And it’s probably as close to a friendly local tapas place as we’re going to get in Hong Kong. 19 Hollywood Rd., Central, 9123-6049

Mozart Stub’n
The interior of stately wood paneling and crisp white tablecloths make you feel like you’re in old-school Salzburg. The Austrian food hits the comfort button: cheese fondue, cured ham with mushrooms, lamb in rosemary sauce and fantastic mashed potatoes. And the background music? Mozart, naturally.
G/F, 8 Glenealy, Central, 2522-1763

Rive Droit Rive Gauche
The traditional French food is unquestionably good in this sleek cosmopolitan bar: a “right bank, left bank” duality, hence the name. Try the grilled lamb chop with leek and cream gnocchi, and the pan-fried beef fillet Rossini-style.
2/F, Onfem Tower, 29 Wyndham St., Lan Kwai Fong, 2525-1681

1/5 Nuevo - This is not a fusion restaurant. No, it’s the good ol’ days of one restaurant, two cuisines, in this case French and Spanish. Paella sits alongside duck confit on the menu but, thankfully, not on the plate. The bread is astounding, cooked fresh and piping-hot in a clay pot. Follow it up with the satisfying tapas, and entrees that include possibly the best mussels in the city.
G/F, 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2529-2300

FINDS
For something totally different, try the Scandinavian food at FINDS (the name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden), which serves excellent fish, game and meat dishes. It’s a chic place decked out in icy shades of blue and white, and the popular bar is busy early and late when local
DJs hit the decks.
2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Lan Kwai Fong, 2522-9318

Grissini
A fabulous northern Italian restaurant with fantastic service, tasteful decor, top-notch cuisine and peerless wine service. The food is so good it’s hard to envisage anyone leaving the restaurant anything but content. Don’t miss the grissini breadsticks.
2/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7933

M at the Fringe
A local legend since 1989, when it was one of the first independent European restaurants in the city, M at the Fringe is special from the gold-ink in the reservations book to the plate-lickingly delicious Pavlova. In between, expect fantastic Continental cooking—Mandarin caviar, decadently delicious crispy suckling pig, slow-cooked lamb—expert service, a romantic atmosphere and a truly memorable evening. No wonder local chefs drop by on their
evenings off.
1/F, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2877-4000

Tapeo
In a neighborhood already crowded with tapas bars, Tapeo distinguishes itself by being the only one where the dining room is wrapped around the open kitchen. The first thing you might notice is a giant leg of ham of bellota-quality ham. Other tapas (all meant to be shared between two) include prawns, a very tender grilled chicken served on a bed of red pepper and garlic sauce, and grilled lamb with mojo verde. The placemat menus, handwritten descriptions on tiled walls and friendly chef all make for a truly welcoming and casual atmosphere. And it’s probably as close to a friendly local tapas place as we’re going to get in Hong Kong. 19 Hollywood Rd., Central, 9123-6049

Mozart Stub’n
The interior of stately wood paneling and crisp white tablecloths make you feel like you’re in old-school Salzburg. The Austrian food hits the comfort button: cheese fondue, cured ham with mushrooms, lamb in rosemary sauce and fantastic mashed potatoes. And the background music? Mozart, naturally.
G/F, 8 Glenealy, Central, 2522-1763

Rive Droit Rive Gauche
The traditional French food is unquestionably good in this sleek cosmopolitan bar: a “right bank, left bank” duality, hence the name. Try the grilled lamb chop with leek and cream gnocchi, and the pan-fried beef fillet Rossini-style.
2/F, Onfem Tower, 29 Wyndham St., Lan Kwai Fong, 2525-1681

Petrus - This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The decor is opulent—think chateau chic, with crystal chandeliers and swags of curtains, but with stunning views of the harbor—and the ambiance luxurious, hushed and formal. The food is French haute cuisine, with no fusion flourishes or contemporary re-imaginings, and the ingredients are flown in from France. There are more than 1,000 choices on the wine list, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. Jacket required.
56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590

Spoon by Alain Ducasse
When Michelin-starred celebrity chef Alain Ducasse opens a restaurant, expectations are high. The space is gorgeous, with a fabulous view almost at water level, and a ceiling installation of 550 Murano glass spoons. The wine cellar near the entrance boasts more than 3,000 bottles of Old and New World wines. The menu is pick-and-mix, allowing you to create a unique meal from the range of entrees (the steak is superb), sauces and accompanying vegetables. The food ranges from transcendent to surprisingly rustic, and the service is always outstanding. Can’t decide what to order? Go for the Sexy Spoon taster menu, available in six or eight courses.
InterContinental HongKong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2256

Caprice
Splurge on world-class cuisine at this French restaurant headed by executive chef Vincent Thierry, formerly of Parisian three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Cinq. It’s not just the refined French food that will win you over. The gorgeous interior design includes crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows with glorious harbor views and a glowing walkway past the huge open kitchen. There are private rooms and a chef’s table for those who are willing to really push the boat out. Service is near flawless and a sommelier steers you through the 250 wines on the list. Relaxed atmosphere, amazing food and a heart-stopping bill: in short, the sort of place you should try at least once before you die.
Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon   
French super chef Joel Robuchon hates the term “haute cuisine.” Instead the Gault Millau “Chef of the Century” emphasizes the simplicity and authenticity of his food. Each dish is wrought with exquisite finesse and precision, an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen, the centerpiece of every L’Atelier from New York to Tokyo. The results are extravagant in every possible dimension except size. The food is seriously rich yet brimming with freshness and a sense of taste long-lost from other, similarly presented fare. Favorites on our visit were the caramelized quail with foie gras, lamb from Sisteron, and Robuchon’s signature mashed potatoes, with as much butter and cream as potato.
Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, Central, 2166-9000

Le Petit Paris   
Le Petit Paris may slip under the radar, nestled away on the second floor of the IFC, but what a handy idea to serve haute cuisine right next to haute couture. Everything here is fancy, and though the staff isn’t snobby enough to be French, they’re certain au fait. The extensive menu makes choosing a chore, but the waiters aren’t shy with suggestions and they know what they’re talking about. Every course was delightful and worth savoring. It’s popular with business types—a perfect place to show off Hong Kong on the company dime, thanks to the beautifully framed view of the harbor (book if you want a window table).
Shop 2076, IFC Mall, Central, 2805-5293

Le Tire Bouchon   
One of the oldest independent restaurants in Hong Kong, this is a French restaurant with French staff and plenty of French clientele—always a good sign. Lace curtains, candlelight, double bass in the corner, this place is cute and the food is authentic. Go with your waiter’s recommendations and you’re likely to have a fabulous meal. Private rooms available.
45 Graham St., Central, 2523-5459

Gaddi’s
Where else can you dine to the strains of a live chamber orchestra? This is the finest of dining in a formal room with chandeliers, unparalleled service, and an endless wine list. You might splash out on the chef’s table in the kitchen, or try the surprisingly affordable set lunch. Everything is delicious and delicate. Jackets required for men.
The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3171

Boathouse - There’s a touch of California about the Boathouse, perhaps it’s the way your glass of chilled white wine sparkles in the sun, or the shades worn by your fellow diners for a lazy alfresco lunch overlooking the South China Sea. Turns out, the inspiration was Martha’s Vineyard on the East Coast, which explains the nautical theme and Cape Cod blue walls. Whatever. The food is gloriously fishy, with big buckets of mussels, prawns or clams served with your choice of sauce as well as platters of seafood. Meatier fare includes lamb fillets in vegetable crust and roasted pigeon with leg confit parcel on star anise port wine sauce, as well as pastas and classic sides such as fat chips and mashed potato.
86-88 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2813-4467

The Grill at Plateau
For atmosphere, The Grill is exceptional. Located poolside on the podium level of the Grand Hyatt, you can choose to ignore or appreciate the surrounding skyscrapers. Staff are supremely courteous, firing up the barbecue at sunset for a chargrilled buffet feast. Start with a good range of crisp, tangy salads and a seafood spread —lobsters, flower crab, clams and mussels on ice. Grill offerings include tender, juicy meats (sirloin steak and lamb chops) and seafood.
11/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., 2584-7623

Red Bar and Restaurant
The killer view says it all at this classy spot, but bring a fat wallet or your corporate card. This is where to go if you want sophistication with a side serving of jazz. As Red is attached to Pure Fitness in IFC Mall, you know what to expect in terms of food: light, refreshing and rather health nutty. There’s an abundance of seafood, towers of high-fiber salads and meat from the grill, including duck, lamb and NY strips. Everything appears to be figure-friendly with an emphasis on protein, and the occasional naughty helping of fries or onion rings.
4/F, Podium, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, 8129-8882

Gaia
What’s not to like? Excellent Italian cuisine, a charming alfresco terrace set among lush trees on an Italianate piazza, and when the going gets too hot, there’s an equally pleasant contemporary interior with Ferrari-red seating and bar. The antipasti buffet is fast becoming a legend at lunchtime. 
G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2167-8200

Saigon at Stanley
Book a table on the terrace for an uninterrupted view of Stanley Bay and Lamma. The food is always good, but our favorites are the steamed pork and black mushroom ravioli, the green papaya and beef salad, and the crispy soft-shell crab with salt and pepper. Order what you like, you won’t go wrong.
2/F-3/F, Stanley Beach Villa, 90 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2899-0999

Sauce
This restaurant has what most people come to Sai Kung for: alfresco dining in the main square and good food. Try the fresh pasta with lobster, the tuna ravioli and the sangria. Some dishes are plate-lickingly delicious and although not every dish is perfect, you are sure to have a decent meal.
9 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung, 2791-2348

Spices
Spices has an enviable location spilling out onto the grassy terrace of The Repulse Bay, with teak tables and umbrellas overlooking one of the finest views in Hong Kong. It’s devoted to bringing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East” to its customers. You might feel a bit ambivalent about its “exotic” menu, but you will likely come back just because it’s such a fine place to be.
G/F The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2821

The Quarterdeck Club
A decent restaurant right on the Fragrant Harbour—with the waft of meat and seafood adding the “fragrant” part. It’s a big, stylish place with panoramic views, huge patio and terraces and large fans manufacturing a sea breeze when nature fails. Lit by a huge skylight, the restaurant seats up to 250 people, with a private dining area for up to 40. Neptune reigns supreme and a popular order is the towering seafood platter of grilled and chilled lobster, mussels, king prawns, oysters, baby octopus, calamari and smoked salmon. The menu also features an extensive range of vegetarian dishes but we prefer the good-value steaks with sauce, vegetables, olive oil pommes puree, braised Romaine hearts, roasted lardons (cubes of bacon), shallots and jus.
G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King St., 2827-8882

The Verandah
Ah, The Verandah. One of the last colonial-style dining rooms left in Hong Kong, The Verandah is suitably grand from the friendly but formal service to the paneled mahogany décor. It’s a wonderful, sun-soaked venue for weekend lunches, with a bright and airy dining room and outdoor terrace. The Sunday brunch buffet is one of the best in town: crunchy Caesar salads and fresh seafood vie for attention with squid-ink pasta, Alaskan lobster, marinated scallops and milk-fed lamb. The innovative dishes demand at least two hours of solid eating. Reservations essential.
109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2822

Green T. House - This one-of-a-kind restaurant was started up in Beijing by Chinese artist JinR, who turned the dining space into a functioning art piece with its stark interiors. Everything, from the painted branches hanging from the ceiling to the Chinese screen doors and silk curtains with hand-painted flowers is pure white. It’s quite an intimidating experience just stepping into the restaurant, never mind eating here, but it's well worth overcoming your reservations in order to experience the beautifully presented dishes. We recommend the foie gras dumplings and chili citrus salmon, which is deliciously crispy and crumbly at the same time. Shop 208, The Arcade, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam, 2989-6036

Lian
Mall restaurants have a masterful way of disguising their interiors to make customers forget they’re dining next to a Fancl House. Lian, on the second floor of IFC Mall, is very good at this. You are welcomed by a glowing interior of warm marble, woods and black glass, with a large communal table hosting a small pond in the middle of the intimate dining room. The menu is a modern take on classic Thai and Vietnamese dishes. We started with classic deep-fried prawn cakes and spring rolls, which were decent, but we recommend you skip those for the soft-shelled crab rolls instead. The most impressive item was the Dirty Chili Martini. 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-1117.

Shek O Chinese-Thai Seafood
The ambiance is seaside-casual, with most customers kicking back after expending some energy, whether it’s a group of sweaty hikers just descended from the Dragon’s Back, surfers from Big Wave Bay, or barefoot families still sandy from the beach. The food is decent, and there’s always plenty of it at reasonable prices. Curries, fried-rice offerings and seafood are crowd pleasers, and the tofu dishes are very well done 303 Shek O Village, 2809-4426.

Inagiku Japanese Restaurant   
Believe the buzz: the food here is authentic and very, very good. The peaceful, Zen-like atmosphere is enough reason to visit, with an entire wall given over to views of the harbor, a funky bar and teppanyaki stations for a casual meal. We had the set menu, starting with a small bowl of salad leaves and excellent tuna and geoclam sashimi, served on a chilled dish. Then the teppanyaki chefs worked their magic, creating a multi-course meal of salmon, beef and scallion rolls, scallops grilled in the shell, vegetable fried rice, miso soup and a dish of Japanese pickles. The super-fresh ingredients were cooked before our eyes with just oil, salt and pepper. Wonderful. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0600.

Spices
Spices has an enviable location spilling out onto the grassy terrace of The Repulse Bay, with teak tables and umbrellas overlooking one of the finest views in Hong Kong. It’s devoted to bringing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East” to its customers. You might feel a bit ambivalent about its “exotic” menu, but you will likely come back just because it’s such a fine place to be. G/F, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2821.

Sorabol
One of the greatest things about walking into a Korean restaurant is the delicious smell from the open barbecues in the middle of each table—provided no one gets too loaded and scorches their food. The marinated chicken was subtle and flavorful, and the spring onion seafood pancake was the best we’ve tried—stuffed full of seafood and whole spring onions, still sizzling on a hot plate. Service was efficient and unobtrusive. Extra points go to our waitress for replacing the barbecue plate when it got crusty. 17/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay, 2881-6823.

Indonesian 1968
Passed down to a new generation (the original owner’s sons), this long-established Causeway Bay favorite is a fun, funky place with a soothing vibe. The interior is all soft whites and island furniture while ambient tunes play softly in the background. We started with a papaya salad with mixed vegetables, with the spice modified for the Chinese palate, and a platter of sweet chicken and pork satays on a plate designed by the owners. For the main course, we had ayam panggang kecap—grilled chicken with sweet and spicy Javanese sauce—rendang beef curry and lidah semur, a stewed ox tongue with garlic sauce served on a French loaf. The beef curry was delicious and tender, but the ox tongue stole the show—so tender that it fell apart like short ribs. G/F, 28 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-9981. Also located at 2-4 Observatory Court, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2619-1926, www.indonesianrestaurant1968.com.

Rice Paper
The open dining area, which overlooks the harbor and manages to be both muted and elegant, is best for hip young professionals chattering animatedly. Understated beige woods provide a restrained counterpoint to the ornate white woodcarving that dominates the far wall, a rococo vestige of Vietnam’s French-colonial past. The skillfully prepared traditional dishes also reveal traces of a French accent—the lamb curry, herb-crusted and served on the bone, arrived with warm baguettes instead of the usual rice. A cold shredded-chicken salad was dressed with a light, creamy sauce and tossed with lemongrass, fresh mint and cilantro—cool, refreshing flavors on a hot day.  Steamed garoupa served in a banana leaf was tender and meaty, although not as juicy as it could have been. Diners have the option of rolling their own rice paper rolls with their favorite ingredients or ordering pre-rolled varieties from the menu; the lightly fried softshell crab rolls arrived standing smartly on end in a disciplined row. The lure of beautifully presented, well-seasoned dishes served in graceful surroundings—and with a harbor view, at modest prices—might just prove irresistible. Shop P413-418, 4/F, World Trade Centre, Causeway Bay. 2890-3975.

Lotus     
Lotus is a bar-cum-restaurant with a funky lounge at the entrance and more formal dining in back. Despite the Southeast Asian theme, it is “Oz-tastic” in its origins. The cuisine is Southeast Asian “street food to high street.” In other words, they take the simple dishes and flavors of Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore and add beautiful presentation without losing the origins of the dish. There’s no “fusion”: if it’s an Indonesian dish, so be it. 37-43 Pottinger St., Central, 2543-6290.

Nobu
Believe the hype. This place is mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution. The quality standards of every dish are so stringent and precise we wouldn’t have noticed if Nobuyuki Matsuhisa was serving us personally. But then there he was, with his huge smile and shock of jet-black hair, offering a complimentary bowl of whipped salmon egg emulsion. Awash in ambient amber and rose lighting, Nobu has a stunning floor-to-ceiling view of the harbor, bathed in sunshine by day and glowing with the city lights by night. The blindingly fast chefs create some of the freshest, purest and most innovative Japanese food we’ve ever eaten. It’s a simple concept really; the best, freshest fish in the world flown in by jet mere hours after it was caught, accentuated with just the right light touch of savory/sweet/salty sauces and sides. The sushi is a must, as is the amazing cooked black cod that made Nobu famous. In a word: perfection. 1/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-1211.

Café Siam
This place is packed at all times thanks to a breezy décor and genuine Thai dishes cooked by genuine Thai cooks with genuine Thai produce, at prices that would have SoHo restaurateurs crying in their caprihinis. This is Bangkok street food at cheap prices and in a convenient location. No wonder it’s always full. G/F, 40-42 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2851-4803.   

Megu
The popular Japanese restaurant from New York is also all about organic, seasonal dining. The menu is largely traditional Japanese, though with a modern touch. Don’t miss the grilled smelt shishamo fish with roe flown in from Hokkaido and blue fin toro with avocado and wasabi sauce, ravioli style. Designer Yasumichi Morita has shied away from Japanese minimalism in favor of a striking gold and red design, highlighted by the handmade kimono-patterned ceiling and 88 bamboo lamps from Kyoto, each costing a staggering $10,000. The food: Megu R002-3, 3/F, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3743-1421.

Tokio Joe
Who would expect an upscale Japanese restaurant to be so fun-loving? Tokio Joe is a refreshing departure from the usual formality of Japanese restaurants, with waitresses dressed in black vinyl, although it’s disturbingly dimly lit during the day. The sushi chefs were all trained in Japan and really know their stuff. Don’t-miss dishes include the California roll with soft-shelled crab, kelp-grilled seabass and the tuna salad. And try the sake, which is listed by region and serving suggestion. G/F, 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1889.

Top Deck - What was once a mahjong parlor for the staff of the floating Jumbo Kingdom restaurant is now a gorgeous alfresco destination dining spot. Though the giant restaurant boat is generally considered a tourist trap, the Café Deco Group has created a real gem, where you can munch on jet-fresh oysters and Tasmanian salmon while relaxing in huge lounge chairs. Good for a long Sunday brunch and private parties. The menu covers virtually every corner of the globe, which could be worrisome, except they have a Japanese chef at the massive sushi bar and an Indian cook manning the tandoori oven. Jumbo Floating Restaurant, Aberdeen (boat from Shum Wan Pier), 2552-3331.

Boathouse
There’s a touch of California about the Boathouse—perhaps it’s the way your glass of chilled white wine sparkles in the sun, or the shades worn by your fellow diners for a lazy alfresco lunch overlooking the South China Sea. Turns out, the inspiration was Martha’s Vineyard on the East Coast, which explains the nautical theme and Cape Cod–blue walls. Whatever. The food is gloriously fishy, with big buckets of mussels, prawns or clams served with your choice of sauce as well as platters of seafood. Meatier fare includes lamb fillets and roasted pigeon, as well as pastas and classic sides such as fat chips and mashed potato. Can get lively on weekends. 86-88 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2813-4467.

Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant
There’s a reason this Sai Kung institution usually has a queue outside: it’s superb. Think simple sautéed rockfish, lobster sashimi served on dry ice followed by lobster-head soup, mouthwatering garlic shrimp or crab with scallions and ginger. 53 Sai Kung Hoi Pong St., 2791-1195.

Cococabana   
This lovely alfresco eatery sits on top of the shower block at Deep Water Bay, giving you a perfect view of the beach and ocean. The menu is ambitious with a focus on dishes from the lava grill. UG/F, Beach Building, Deep Water Bay Beach, Island Rd., Deep Water Bay, 2812-2226.

Hemingway’s by the Bay
A resort-style atmosphere right on the waterfront, with large deck, palm trees and umbrellas. The vibe is laid-back, with pilots on rest days, moms and toddlers by day, returning office workers by night. It’s one of the few places in Hong Kong that can claim to make authentic Key Lime pie and Jamaican jerk chicken and a real Antiguan rum punch. The weekend barbecue buffets are also popular with reggae tunes jammin’ in the background, weather permitting. Shop GO9, Block A, Water Margin, Discovery Bay, 2987-8855.

Pier 7
The Star Ferry’s Pier Seven has been transformed into a laid-back café and bar with an outdoor terrace that provides a breathtaking new angle of the IFC building. With 3,000 square feet of warm woods and metallic Spanish and Italian tiles, it’s all very relaxed, and the periodic chiming of the clock tower’s an excellent reminder that it’s your last round before you miss your ferry. There’s a salad bar as well as a daily carving during lunch. For teatime, try the homemade raisin scones with jam, a glazed lemon meringue pie, or any of their delicious sandwiches with your pint after work, like a mini panini or a classic Caesar wrap. Shop M, Roof Viewing Deck, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry, Central, 2167-8153.

Saigon at Stanley   
Book a table on the terrace for an uninterrupted view of Stanley Bay and Lamma. The food is always good, but our past favorites include the steamed pork and black mushroom ravioli, the green papaya and beef salad, and the crispy soft-shell crab with salt and pepper. Order what you like, you won’t go wrong. 2/F-3/F, Stanley Beach Villa, 90 Stanley Main St., Stanley, 2899-0999.

The Quarterdeck Club
A decent restaurant right on the Fragrant Harbor—with the waft of meat and seafood adding the “fragrant” part. It’s a big, stylish place with panoramic views, huge patio and terraces and large fans manufacturing a sea breeze when nature fails. Lit by a huge skylight, the restaurant seats up to 250 people, with a private dining area for up to 40. Neptune reigns supreme and a popular order is the towering seafood platter of grilled and chilled lobster, mussels, king prawns, oysters, baby octopus, calamari and smoked salmon. The menu also features an extensive range of vegetarian dishes but we prefer the good-value steaks. G/F, Fleet Arcade, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King St., 2827-8882.

Angelini - Located on the Kowloon Shangri-La’s mezzanine floor, Angelini’s piece de resistance is the harbour view, and the decor doesn’t try to outdo it. The restaurant is divided into three different zones identified by wood, carpet and stone flooring, and guests can interact with the maestro at a chef’s table. With Italian native Head Chef Vittori at the helm, Angelini serves up some of the most authentic cuisine in town. The delicious and unpretentious menu features delectable range of tasty dishes made with only the finest ingredients, air-freighted direct from Italy three times a week. The fare is rich in flavor and freshness, with an emphasis on seafood and a wide range of exclusive olive oils and herbs. Open daily, noon-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm, midnight-2:30am. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-8901.

Bostonian
Great for a casual meal, power lunch or corporate dinner function, it’s classy but fun, with a huge oyster bar and standby chef ready to shuck-to-order from a range of the day’s freshest catch. The wine list is sublime and if you love seafood, this place will not disappoint; meat lovers can also rely on the perfectly done juicy steak. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm. B/F, Langham Hotel,
8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-1133.

Hutong
There’s no debate, this celeb favorite is gorgeous. Dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and a fabulous harbour view let you simultaneously feel like you are in a throwback upscale northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Service is a mish-mash, ranging from skillful to forgetful, but at least everyone is polite. To match the striking decor, the food is beautifully presented and reflective of Cantonese haute cuisine. Open daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight. 28/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342.

Imasa
There is a certain comfort walking into Imasa; perhaps it’s the soothing decor in beige tones, perhaps it’s the ever-friendly service, and perhaps it’s because you’re given total freedom to choose. Set lunch ranges from a regular eel rice set to a deluxe sushi set. While you can go as decadent as you want here, there are also value-for-money options. Although Imasa has steady fanfare, it hasn’t become complacent. Every season, there’s a promotion that brings new excitement to the palate, be it hotpot, kaiseki or the all-you-can-eat sushi offerings. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm. 1/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3175.

Morton’s of Chicago
When dining at Morton’s, expect to find huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show. The appetizers will also win you over; especially recommended is the shrimp Alexander. The “show and tell” aspect of the menu presentation - a trolley covered with various cuts, broccoli, asparagus and large Idaho potatoes - is also helpful, if a little stagey. For dessert, indulge in some Key lime pie and New York cheesecake. One of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong, with prices to match. Open Mon-Fri 5:30pm-11:30pm (last orders 11pm); Sat-Sun 5pm-10:30pm (last orders 10pm). All credit cards. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343.


Nadaman
Awarded “top ten great hotel restaurants in the world” in 2005 by Hotels Magazine, Nadaman’s offers authentic Japanese cuisine and a new contemporary dining experience with over 170 years’ tradition of excellence. The sophisticated interior incorporates strong Japanese flavors with a contemporary twist. Choose to dine at the sushi bar, teppanyaki grill, general dining area, tatami room or innovative private teppanyaki room. Open noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm. Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8751.

Ruth’s Chris
If you’ve just won the lottery and have a savage craving for some good steak - we’re talking certified Australian Angus beef - call first and head straight to Ruth’s Chris Steak House. It’s the perfect place to thumb your nose at all those vegans who keep telling us red meat is the devil incarnate. Because you have to pay for each course, a meal for two can easily cost more than $1,000. That said, if you’re feeling flush, Ruth’s is a meat-lover’s haven. Open daily noon-11pm. G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6000.

Sabatini Ristorante
The decor is simply lovely, and the signature pastas perfect. The desserts are to die for, and the service is seamless - in fact, it’s hard to find fault with anything here, from the light salads to the hearty main courses to the jazz tunes of the band from 7:15pm nightly. Open daily noon-2:30, 6pm-11pm. 3/F, The Royal Garden Hotel, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2000.

Spoon
When internationally famous Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse opens a restaurant, expectations are high. Designed by New York-based Toni Chi, the space is gorgeous, with floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbour view and ceiling installation of hand-blown Venetian Mercury glass spoons. The menu is in a pick-and-mix style, which gives you room to be creative. The food ranges from transcendent to surprisingly rustic, but the service is always outstanding. Open daily 6pm-11:30pm (last orders). InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2256.

Morton’s of Chicago - One of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong, with prices to match. Expect huge slabs of prime, aged beef and what look like the winning entries in a vegetable show. The appetizers will also win you over. The “show and tell” trolley covered with various cuts, broccoli, asparagus and large Idaho potatoes is also helpful, if a little stagey, but the service is impeccable. The manager recommends the lobster cocktail and the bone-in rib eye. For dessert, indulge in key lime pie and New York cheesecake.
4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel, & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343

Lawry’s The Prime Rib
Lawry’s invented seasoned salt. And if that doesn’t impress you, it’s one of the United States’ most revered steak houses, dating back to 1938. Prime rib is served tableside in massive stainless steel carts, the waitresses wear 50s-era aprons and hats, cozy booths ring the main area and there’s a small cigar bar to one side. The décor is plain for a pricey restaurant, but the bar is more intimate. Once the food arrives you won’t be thinking about much else. There’s fun to be had with the spinning salad bowl on crushed ice with vintage sherry dressing whipped up in front of you. But the real star is the beef. The massive cuts of juicy prime rib are served with such classic sides as Yorkshire pudding, double-baked potato, creamed spinach and sautéed mushrooms.
4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2218, 2907-2218

Outback Steakhouse
This always-popular casual steak house serves the typical fare, with cuts of meat and seafood ruling the roost. The indulgent appetizers include a deep-fried mushroom with ranch dressing and creamed onion soup. But the real star is the beef—juicy, tender and excellent without extra seasoning. If you’re looking for a laid-back meal in an upbeat and friendly ambiance, head to the Outback.
2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 2881-8012

Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Craving steaks? Book a table at Ruth’s Chris Steak House. This is the perfect place to thumb your nose at all those who say red meat is the devil incarnate, and tuck into prime Australian Angus or US beef. A steak meal for two can easily cost more than $1,000, but if you’ve got the cash it’s worth every cent.
Lippo Centre, 89 Queensway, Admiralty, 2522-9090       


San Francisco Steak House
An old-school steak house that rewards a big appetite and carefree attitude toward cholesterol, with laden plates of prime rib, wedge-cut French fries, onion rings and mayonnaise-drenched coleslaw. We say dig in and hit the gym tomorrow. It’s a cozy spot that has been cooking steaks since 1967, no wonder they have it down to a fine art. Takeaway available.
8/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-7576

Steak House Wine Bar & Grill
Gorgeous wine bar, killer harbor view, and stunning steak, perhaps the best in the city. This place celebrates beef with an amazing range of cuts: USDA certified prime beef (New York strip, rib-eye, petit filet mignon, center cut, filet mignon and a Chateaubriand for two); Australian wagyu and Black Angus; and Argentinean and Canadian strip loin, all grilled to order on the city’s only charcoal grill (the government won’t issue any more approvals). Choose your own knife, a sauce and natural rock salts from around the world to accompany your feast. The salad bar boasts 24 kinds of fresh veggies to get things started on what will be a meal to remember. Terrific.
B/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2405