November 22, 2008 | Hong Kong
Issue #758: Drop Out

Culture Shock

Culture Shock

August 29th, 2008

Macau as a cultural hub? What madness is this? By HK Staff.

Think Macau’s nothing but a strip of soulless casinos? Think again. In spite of all that ruthless development, Macau’s cultural identity remains strong as ever. The Portuguese colonial influence has had an undeniable impact on the way art and creativity thrives in the small territory. Here are some places you can go and soak up um pouco Macanese culture.

St. Paul’s Fine Art
Located at the foot of St. Paul’s façade, this little shop is one of two fine art establishments in the area. The brainchild of the local artists’ association Art For All Society (AFA), it houses studios and exhibition space for six main artists, including the world-renowned Konstantin Bessmertny. The main gallery, where exhibitions change monthly, sits on the ground floor of an elegant four-storey colonial building, while the studios occupy the floors above. Once you’ve had your fill of art, don’t forget to wander up and enjoy the open rooftop bar. Travessa de S. Paulo, Nos 3, 5 e 7 2848 2848,  www.stpaulscorner.com.

Ox Warehouse
Part art gallery, part theater, this former cattle depot showcases some of Macau’s more bizarre, even shocking, artwork, mostly by a local group calling themselves the “The Old Ladies’ House.” In addition to their regular exhibitions featuring various paintings, performance art, multimedia installations and sculptures, the group offers workshops for different age groups on art and music. Aside from art spaces, the old building also houses a small library and café. Intersection of Av. Coronel Mesquita and Av. do Almirante Lacerda, 2853-0026, oxwarehouse.blogspot.com.

Albergue
This 200-year-old colonial Mediterranean-style building commonly known as the “Yellow House” was once a sanctuary for the poor and refugees during World War II. It later became a nursing home for the elderly. When the last residents moved out in 2000, the place became a venue for art groups to put on projects and events. It was closed for renovation for a while, but now it’s back, transformed into a multi-disciplinary laboratory for fashion, furniture and architecture in association with the Portuguese and local design collective Lines Lab. It also houses Locana, an Italian Restaurant, Lines Lab Creative Lab II, a design shop and a bookshop called BIOOM. Calçada da Igreja de São Lázaro, 8-A3, 2892-2159.

ConstrAction
With our small spaces, multi-tasking furniture is a must. Macau-based Portuguese architect Nuno Soares took this concept to the extreme when he created his “ConstrAction” line in 2005. With tables that turn into beds, sofas and shelves, this hardworking little piece of design ingenuity is also eco-friendly, employing second-hand materials such as scaffolding and plywood. It caught the eye of multipurpose homeware fans at the 2005 Lisbon Design Exhibition “Experimentadesign,” the 2006 Hong Kong ID Expo and at the 2007 Salone Satellite in Milan. Visit Soares’ Macau showroom for your own multifunctional “ConstrAction” piece. —Rita Gonçalves
Av. Infante D. Henrique 37 Ed. Rainha D. Leonor, 1 C, 2871-5774.

The Museum of Macau
This is a must-visit site for anyone who wants to learn more about the former colony. The museum, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located in a 16th century fort on the hill of the Fortaleza do Monte within the interior of the fortress. It is also part of the so-called “Historic Centre of Macau” as it, along with 19 other sites, tell the story of the former colonial city. It has frequent programs of exhibitions and lectures and is currently holding a 10th anniversary exhibition. Open Tue-Sun,10am-6pm. Praceta do Museu de Macao, 112, 2835-7911, www.macaumuseum.gov.mo.

Konstantin Bessmertny
Macau’s most famous artist hails from Blagovesthensk, Russia. A local resident since 1993, Konstantin Bessmertny has made a name for himself overseas through exhibitions such as the Venice Biennale. His works offer a wry critique of postmodern absurdity, often depicting the highbrow and the lowbrow in bed with one another. Football stars, dictators, clubbers and hookers appear in traditional contexts such as Mozart’s “The Magic Flute.” His literary influences range from the Bible to Beckett, while his allegorical paintings riff on anyone from Titian to Picasso to George Chinnery. Next to these broader brushstrokes, Bessmertny reserves some of his barbed wit for local developments in his current home. Most notable is his series spearing the region’s recent commercial boom, entitled “Casino Republic.”

St. Dominic’s Church
Built in the late 16th century, St. Dominic’s (Sao Domingos) is widely regarded as one of the city’s most beautiful churches. An architectural masterpiece in itself, the building is also home to the Treasure of Sacred Art, a rare (and pretty creepy) collection of religious works that were sent over from Portugal for safekeeping when the Religious Orders were abolished in 1834. This tiny museum houses as many as 300 objects from oils paintings, to stone sculptures, to richly ornamented canonicals and liturgical vessels. Worth the visit if you’re in the area. Open daily, 10am-6pm. S.Domingos Square.

Macao Museum of Art
Situated directly beside the Cultural Centre is the Macao Museum of Art, a sleek and modern five-storey building which houses the island’s largest collection of arts and relics in its 10,000 square meter space. From prehistoric pottery dating back 6,000 years to contemporary works from some of the city’s most famed artists, it’s the essential cultural destination for enthusiasts. And with ever-changing exhibitions spread over 4,000 meters of specially reserved space, the museum has its finger firmly on the pulse of the territory’s burgeoning arts scene. Macao Culture Centre, Av. Xian Xing Hai, Nape, 8791-9814, 8791-9800.

Graffiti Land at Rua de Tercena
Just goes to show what a government can do when they become less hostile to alternative art—near the Rua de Tercena, there’s a piece of empty land that the Macau government has turned into a graffiti art space for kids. Well, there’s no strict age limit, so adults, feel free to shake up your spray cans and leave some marks.

IPOR
Feel like tackling José Saramago in the original? Try IPOR (Portuguese Institute of the Orient). A project of the Fundaçao Oriente in Lisbon, this organization works to maintain close relations between Macau and Portugal and promote Portuguese culture and language throughout the Far East. Operations in Macau include the Portuguese Language Centre, which offers second language courses, and the popular Portuguese Bookshop (Livraria Portuguesa, S Domingos 18-22, 2851 5915). The institute also sponsors and presents various concerts, exhibitions, conferences and seminars throughout the region. They’ve got an excellent website at www.ipor.org.mo - if you already speak Portuguese, that is. Rua Pedro Nolasco da Silva, Nos 45-10, 2853-0227.

Tap Seac Gallery
This historic building used to be the mansion of an upper crust family in Macau, but was later turned into an art gallery by the Cultural Institute. Since then it has become an important showcase for local and overseas artists. Apart from the visual arts exhibitions, the building itself is an architectural gem itself. Feel the neo-classical European flair of 1920s Macau, with its Portuguese façade of wooden shutters, red brick walls and Moorish arched doors. Open daily, 10 am-7 pm. Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida, 95, 2836-6866, www.macauart.net/TS.