The ubiquitous dai pai dong may not be around for much longer. Miranda Yeung and Amy Cheung sample some of Central's oldest.

The dai pai dong is a dying breed. A mainstay of the Hong Kong dining scene for the past century or more, the government is phasing out these small, streetside eateries. No new dai pai dong licenses have been issued since 1970, and the existing fixed-space licenses can only be passed on to the hawker's spouse. Which is why when Wong Kwong-hing died on May 6, it should have spelled the end for his 80-year-old dai pai dong, the Man Yuen noodle stall on Elgin Street. But the place is so popular that, at press time, more than 2,660 taxi drivers had signed a petition to urge the government to allow it to continue operating. It’s not the only place that may not be around for much longer. We visited some of Central's
oldest dai pai dongs - enjoy them while you can.

Chan Sze Kee
This 50-year-old dai pai dong is relatively spacious.
It serves different food at lunch and dinner. During the day, its MSG-free wonton noodles ($14) are a favorite with Central workers. At night couples come for
traditional cuisine, such as the house specialty fresh steamed fish portions with preserved vegetable ($38). Mon-Sun 11am-3:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm.

Lan Fong Yuen
More than half-a-century old, Lan Fong Yuen is known for its Hong Kong-style milk tea (hot $11, cold $13). Ten years ago, it opened an indoor restaurant next to the original food stall - try the not-to-be-missed chicken lo mein with spring onion sauce ($32). Open Mon-Sat
7am-6pm, closed on Sun.

Man Yuen Noodle Stall
This little stall on Elgin Street became the focus of an outcry when it was announced it would have to close, following the death of license-holder Wong Kwong-hing. It attracts overseas and mainland tourists, who chow down happily next to tables full of locals, including
people from the neighborhood who eat there almost every day, and a legion of faithful taxi drivers. You can mix and match dishes such as the famous wonton and cow belly at $20. Open daily noon-12:30am.

Sing Heung Yuen
Forty-year-old Sing Heung Yuen is a good place to take a break in NoHo. Its famous pork chop bun ($9.50), potato and beef macaroni in soup ($20), and mixed sauce honey toast ($5.50) will ensure you come back. Open daily, 8am-5:30pm.

Shing Kee
In business for more than 55 years, Shing Kee is packed for dinner, when it serves seasonal dishes such as lamb belly hotpot ($38) and fish with tomato sauce ($30). A popular choice among regular customers is its enigmatically named "big soup," which is packed with a variety of ingredients. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-9pm.

Shui Kee
It's easy to miss this small stall, even though it has been in Gutzlaff Street - between Lyndhurst Terrace and Wellington Street - for more than 50 years. Popular dishes include cow offal noodles ($17), deep-fried fish skin ($8) and deep-fried eel dumpling ($8). Open daily 11am-5:30pm.

Yuk Yip Dessert Shop
One of the oldest dai pai dongs in Hong Kong, Yuk Yip Dessert Shop has been in business for 90 years, passing through four generations of owners. The menu is limited, but it's popular for typical Hong Kong sweet soups such as green bean sweet soup and sesame soup (hot $6.50, cold $7). Open daily 12:30pm-12:30am. n

Directions:
Chan Sze Kee and Shing Kee, Stanley St., Central. Man Yuen Noodle Stall and Yuk Yip dessert shop, Elgin St., SoHo. Lan Fong Yuen, Gage St., Central. Shui Kee, Gutzlaff St., Central. Sing Heung Yuen, Mee Lun St., NoHo.