A short train ride away, Guangzhou is filled with plenty of fun things to see and do—you just have to know where to look. By HK Staff. Photos by Gary Mak.

Shop Til You Drop

Mall Trawl
Shang Jiu and Xia Jiu Lu, commonly known as Shangxia Jiu, is where most of Guangzhou’s 10 million-strong population can be found on any given Sunday. Stand in the center of the pedestrianized piazza and admire the thrum of humanity scurrying around you, or lose yourself in the labyrinthine malls opposite the larger complex, where young Guangzhouers buy trinkets, gadgets, leatherware and funky outfits. But even in this melee, the district loses none of its charm; gorgeous buildings with stained glass windows and a distinctly historical air can still be seen lining the streets, nestled among the larger complexes.

Escape the Buzz
After shopping at the big malls in Tianhe District, walk to Tianhe Nan Yi Lu and enjoy a more tranquil shopping experience. A residential area with boutiques and cafes dotted along its road, the trendy Guangzhouers love the area for its unique fashion items and cozy, alfresco cafes.  Liu Yun Xiao Ju, Tianhe Nan Yi Lu (right behind Zhengjia Shopping Mall).

Bargain Hunting
Guangzhou’s answer to Fa Yuen Street, Zhuangyuan Fang is one of the city’s more popular street markets. Situated in the Yue Xiu district, the 200-meter alleyway is home to a cluster of tiny shops and street side stalls selling everything from tea cozies to mobile phone cases. Cheap imitation goods are available on almost every corner, with a pair of “Guxi” sunglasses going for as little as RMB20. Be sure to sample some of the tasty street snacks while you’re there, but avoid the seafood.  Renmin Nan Lu, just south of Daxin Lu

Computer Malls
Think Hong Kong’s the heart of modern-day technology? OK, maybe it is, but that doesn’t mean Guangzhou isn’t slowly catching up. From the latest laptops fresh out of the factory to questionable devices that are only legal in this part of the world, their multi-storied mega-malls house everything that your geeky mind would ever need. But buyers beware: this is mainland China after all, the epicenter of pirated goods, so take that into consideration when weighing your options.  Along Shipai Xi Lu and Tianhe Lu.

Outdoor Fun

Take a Hike
Venture to the outskirts of the city and visit Baiyun Mountain. At 372.8 meters high, both experienced and first-timer hikers can easily spend a day taking in all the area has to offer. Stop by their dim sum shop before the three-hour hike, a traditional hole-in-the-wall joint serving dirt-cheap but delicious snacks. Feeling lazy? The cable car up is just RMB25, and when you reach the top, choices down include bungee jumping (RMB150) and globe riding (rolling down a hill in a giant hamster ball, RMB50).  Baiyun Mountain, Guangyuan Zhong Lu.

Chimelong Water Park
Seek relief from the hot summer by taking a 30-minute ride to Chimelong Water Park. It’s the biggest water park in Asia, and it boasts the largest wave pool and some of the fastest speed slides in the world. If that’s not enough excitement for you, the Chimelong complex also has an amusement park, a circus, a safari park, a crocodile park, a golf center, hotels and restaurants.
Yingbin Lu, Panyu, 8479-2222, en.chimelong.com.

Indoor Fun

Paintballing
What better way to relieve the Guangzhou stress than by pelting fellow combatants with paint-filled pellets? Be sure to make use of the various trenches and old tires on the battleground for cover. If you want to surrender, whether for lack of ammo or cojones, simply wave the towel. It’s RMB80 per head, inclusive of a helmet eyewear, shoes, army fatigues and 30 pellets.
Southern China Arboretum, Citic Plaza, Xing Ke Lu, Tianhe district, 8523-1756.

Point and Shoot
Paintball not doing it? How about shotguns? The Guangzhou Shooting Sports Center offers easy and affordable access to live firearms with two shooting galleries. The first is your standard firing range with paper targets and a modest selection of handguns. Once you’re accustomed to the basics, try some skeet shooting in the second room. The double-barrels throw a mean kickback, so be sure to follow the instructor’s directions. The price is also unbelievably cheap: RMB3.5 for a pistol bullet and RMB12.6 for a shotgun bullet. Safety goggles and ear protectors included. 209 Huanshi Zhong Lu (right next to the TV Tower), 8666-2470.

History Tours

Whampoa Military Academy
The Whampoa Military Academy in the Huangpu district was China’s first modern military school. Built by Sun Yat-sen in 1924, it was destroyed by the Japanese army in World War II. But the government recently declared it a historical spot and rebuilt the academy’s barracks, where you can get a glimpse of life as a cadet and learn about China’s military history. To get there, take a ferry to Changzhou Island at Yuzhu Pier, then follow the street signs to the academy. Or you could join the tour provided by the pier’s travel agents (RMB25), who provide transportation and tickets (RMB15).

Liwan Museum
Liwan is the actual mansion of the Chan banking family, a living artifact that offers a first-hand glimpse into the Siguan culture of affluent old Canton. Sit at the table where the original occupants once had tea, or check out the historic black-and-white pictures, where you’ll see images of everything from famous opera stars to women with bound feet to renderings of the old city. The house preserves an entire mode of existence from a bygone era. Entrance fee is RMB8. 8:30am-5:30pm.  84 Fengyuan Beilu, Liwan District, 8193-9917.

Old Town
Guangzhou truly puts Hong Kong to shame when it comes to heritage conservation. Stop by Enning Lu or Longjin Xi Lu and you’ll see a dynamic community with people living in real old buildings. You’ll even find spectacular mansions built by rich merchants in the 19th century. Those interested in Chinese Opera should visit its birthplace at the clubhouse of the Bahe Academy (177 Enning Lu)—it’s not open to visitors but if you ask them nicely, they might let you in.

Or take a glimpse at Guangzhou before its economic development took off. Walk down Shang Xia Jiu and you’ll see how the traditional way of life jostles for position with modern city living. The main road is packed with boutiques blaring techno music, but a short stroll down a cobbled alleyway reveals ancient tenement houses shaded by trees, with old-school dentists and hawkers still plying their trade.

The Other Side of Guangzhou

Art Walk
Keeping with the explosion of the mainland art scene, visitors should stop by the Guangdong Museum of Art on Ersha Island, which frequently holds exhibitions of contemporary art. The Guangdong Triennial, one of the region’s most provocative art showcases, is also organized by this museum and will be held September this year.  38 Yanyu Lu, Ersha Island, 8735-1468, www.gdmoa.org

Shamian Island
If you want to escape Guangzhou’s hustle, you’ll find a haven of tranquility on Shamian Island. A stroll over a pedestrian bridge will take you to this sandbank in the middle of the Pearl River, a pristine environment complete with exclusive country clubs and green parks. Leased to the French and the British in the 19th century, it’s rich in colonial architecture, with many of the former dwellings now converted into museums, shops and apartments. Soak up the atmosphere by wandering through manicured gardens, strolling along the promenade or grabbing a drink in one of the many beer gardens, restaurants and wine bars. Shamian Island is a short walk from Huangsha metro station.

Hit the Spa
Sick of the Guangzhou crush? Take some time out to recharge with the Shangri-la’s CHI spas. We opted to try both the Aroma Vitality massage and the Healing Stone massage. The former is a deep-tissue rubdown that combines Swedish, shiatsu and reflexology techniques, and while we were concerned about the latter’s hot stones, all our apprehensions soon melted away with our tensions as the stones served to relax and ease our muscles.
1 Huizhan Dong Lu, Haizhu District, 8917-8888

Guangxiao Temple
One of the oldest temples down south, Guangxiao (Bright Piety) is famed for its history. Built during the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420), it’s rumored that Huineng, the most influential character in Zen history after Bodhidarma, started here as a novice in the 7th century. The golden Buddha and Bodhisattvas in the main hall are magnificent, while the inner courtyards offer peace and quiet away from the Canton chaos. There’s also Puti Jinlufang, a fabulous vegetarian gourmet restaurant behind the main hall. 6am-5:30pm.
109 Guangxiao Lu, Yuexiu District, www.gzgxs.org

After Hours

Africa Town
No big city is complete without an immigrant’s bazaar vending all manner of weird and wonderful things. For Guangzhou, it’s Africa Town, located in the Tianxiu Building on the corner of Xiaobei and Huanshi Lu. Selling everything from mobile phones to African-style clothing, wigs to chainsaws, the area is popular with merchants who export the goods back home. There’s also a nice restaurant selling authentic kebabs.
 
Shake Your Tang
Situated in the Jianshe Liu Ma Lu area of the Yuexiu District, Tang is an underrated club that is sure to appeal to even the most discerning of nightlife junkies. As you enter the main room, you’re immediately confronted with a grand spiral staircase, where lush murals and replica artifacts line the walls. The main bar and dance floor sit at the bottom, while the resident DJ is perched high above, spinning a Guangzhou-esqe mix of hip-hop and house. For more intimate surroundings, try the upstairs bar or the VIP rooms, each complete with a bed and a private dance floor. All that, and prices start as low as RMB30.  Tang Club, 1 Jianshe Liu Ma Lu, 8384-1638.

Where to stay

The Ritz-Carlton
This newly-opened hotel is located in the heart of the up-and-coming business district, and once you step into the lobby, its air of classic luxury transports you to a different world. Rooms are equipped with all the mod cons, and amenities such as a spa, state-of-the-art gym, outdoor heated pool and Club Lounge for business travelers make this a haven in the center of the city.  3 Xingan Lu, Pearl River New City, Tianhe District, 3813-6688, www.ritzcarlton.com

The Shangri-la
Right beside the Convention Center sits the 8-month old Shangri-la. Though brand new, the hotel has all the familiar comforts one has come to expect from the chain: the exquisite food, creature comforts, sport facilities, and of course, their signature CHI spa. With over 700 spacious and exquisite rooms, you’ll never be without the perfect sleep. Immensely relaxing beds are just the start of it; each abode comes fitted with high-speed internet access, flat screen TVs and panoramic windows, where you can have your breakfast overlooking the Pearl River.  1 Hui Zhan Dong Lu, Haizhu District, 8917-8888, www.shangri-la.com

The Grand Hyatt
The ultra-sleek, ultra-modern Grand Hyatt boasts the city’s first sky lobby, which, much like the hotel’s spacious 375 rooms, offers spectacular views of the Pearl River and Tianhe district. Amenities include a 25-meter pool, a majestic rooftop spa and top-notch dining facilities. And of course, the region’s first and only sky bridge lounge. 12 Zhujiang Xi Lu, Pearl River New City, Tianhe District, 8396-1234, www.hyatt.com

The New Guangzhou

The first thing visitors to Guangzhou notice is the city’s high rate of construction. Roads are altered on a weekly basis to accommodate the city’s immense growth.

The Guangdong Opera House, located on Zhujian Boulevard, was designed by British architect Zaha Hadid. Famous for her edgy, dreamy designs, she’s created a twin-boulder plan for the opera house, evocative of ripples on the river.

To its left, is the new wing of the Museum of Guangdong, which resembles a lacquer antique box and is designed by renowned Hong Kong architect Rocco Yim.

Right behind the opera house will be the 104-storey Twin Towers. The second tallest towers in the city, both buildings are set to house offices, apartments, hotels and malls. The west tower, named Guangzhou International Finance Center, will be completed in 2009, followed by the east tower in 2010.

And finally, the tallest addition to the Guangzhou skyline, the Guangzhou TV and Sightseeing Tower is set to be completed in 2009 and will stand at 610 meters (for comparison, IFC2 is 416 meters), with an observation deck at 450 meters. But those venturing to the city before then will already be able to see this vast structure touching the clouds.

The essentials

Calling code: 86-20

Currency exchange: RMB1=HK$1.14

Addresses
In putonghua, “road” is “lu,” which we use throughout this story.

Getting There
The MTR has 12 trains to Guangzhou daily.
Tickets at $190, www.mtr.com.hk