Wan Chai’s Star Street has supernovaed. Lynn Fung finds out what’s cooking on nearby St. Francis and Sun Streets.

Star Street was the original Wan Chai foodie hangout long before the Johnston Road/Ship Street junction even got started. But did you know there are a number of great restaurants on nearby Sun Street and St. Francis’ Street, serving everything from dai pai dong fare to Michelin-starred food? Here are our favorites.

Dining Wok
As anyone who has ever lived abroad can attest, there is a whole sub-genre of Chinese food that is extremely difficult to find in Asia. Crab Rangoon ($60), prawn toast ($60) and moo shu pork ($80) all belong to this mysterious category best-defined as Chinatown food. And now it’s available at Dining Wok, which opened its doors in May. The New York raised Chinese owners imported the concept of American Chinese food, but with the help of the chefs, all from the Ritz-Carlton, who have adapted it to local tastes; the food is mainly deep-fried but very tasty and far less greasy than you would expect. The restaurant is situated in a beautiful 60-year-old Chinese-style building with a functioning well in the courtyard, and is spread out over four floors. The restaurant occupies the first two floors while the third floor is a VIP room decked out in a 1920s Shanghai nightclub motif. Finally, there is a roof garden, which can be rented out for barbeques or private parties at roughly $300 per head. Corkage will be $100 when the liquor license is in place, probably in late August.
12 St. Francis St., 2861-2722.

La Fête
A charming private kitchen tucked away upstairs in a nondescript building, La Fête is easily missed and you get the feeling that Malki, the Parisian chef-owner, kind of likes it that way. The kitchen is not open every day—only when there are bookings. That way, Malki can ensure that he prepares the freshest lobsters, crabs and shrimps for his famous seafood platter only when it’ll be eaten that day. The décor is cozy, with paintings, candles and numerous knick-knacks creating a homely clutter. The simple and perfectly executed dishes are served likewise in an informal and family-style manner. A six-course meal costs $380 per person and includes the seafood platter, starter (pate and foie gras terrine), a soup (usually cream of mushroom or a bisque), salad, main (choices include lamb, pork rib or pasta) and dessert (a fruit tart and a crème brulee), all designed for sharing. Though there is a set menu, special requests are granted when possible. A true Frenchmen, Malki is currently en vacance and the restaurant is closed until Aug 2.
1/F, Block 3, Hoover Towers, 15. St. Francis St., 2893-5891.

Duk Yu Cha Chaan Teng
It’s nice to know that amidst the gentrification of the area, there’s still some of old Hong Kong to be found. Run by a couple of cranky and aged proprietors and complete with slightly grimy table settings, this is as authentic as you’ll get in this trendy neighborhood. The diner serves up some of Hong Kong’s finest old-school cuisines from curry beef brisket ($35), satay beef ($45), greasy but delicious stir-fried flat noodles ($30) to Canto-style sandwiches and toasties ($8-$10). The day’s selections are written in Chinese on the tiled walls so if you’re not a reader, try to have your order memorized before you go in.
17-18 St. Francis Yard, 2528-0713.

Spoil Café
Just down the street from Chez Patrick is a tiny little nook of a restaurant called Spoil Café. With floor-to-ceiling glass windows on both sides, the café has a tranquil atmosphere with a view of the gently swaying trees outside. Offering Italian food at reasonable prices as well as set lunches, it is hugely popular with the office workers from Pacific Place Three. It seats only 16 people though on sunny days there is also an al fresco table for four. The restaurant is often booked out for private parties and it can take up to a week to secure a reservation for dinner. It’s worth the wait though, as the restaurant offers several signature dishes that are quite delectable: the king prawn linguine ($148), the mango and avocado salad ($98) and their specialty dessert, the crunch cake ($40), are just a few notable mentions. Just remember to bring plenty of cash, as they do not accept credit cards.
G/F, Shop 1-1A, Sun St., 3589-5678.

Olala
Opened by the same people that own the French restaurant Olala Charcuterie down the street, this noodle joint is an intriguing blend of east meets west; with the framed Chinese calligraphy on the walls contrasting with the French doors. What the place is more famous for, however, are noodles that cost $70-$150 a bowl. When the price is that high, you can’t help but wonder if it’s just a gimmick. The deluxe braised beef noodles and the signature shrimp noodles (both $150) are two of the most expensive items on the menu and while not everyone would be willing to fork over that much money, it is undeniable they are very good indeed. The noodles are homemade, juicy and springy and they are perfectly complemented by the extremely flavorful homemade soup bases. The soups are made fresh daily and left to simmer overnight, resulting in a delicious and thick broth that feels chock-full of vegetables, herbs and bones rather than chemicals. The braised beef is melt-in-your-mouth tender and served with pickled vegetables that give the dish an extra kick. Finish the meal with complimentary decaf wheat tea and French desserts brought over from Olala Charcuterie. You may never be able to return to that $25 bowl of noodles from your local dai pai dong again.
33 St. Francis’ St., 2294-0426.

Spuntini
This newly opened Italian café/grocer has something for everyone. For instance, those who crave Michelin-starred cuisine but don’t want to pay for it can get it out of a can right here. That’s right. Cedroni is a two-starred Michelin chef who prepares the meats from his restaurant kitchen in Italy, seals them up in a can and ships them over to Spuntini. You can then enjoy his creations for a quarter of the usual fine-dining prices. For example, spaghetti with tuna belly cooked in extra virgin olive oil, rosemary and garlic costs $178. For those who prefer cooking at home, Spuntini also sells all the ingredients (pasta, cheese, prosciutto, Cedroni’s canned foods, wine) necessary to recreate the meal in the privacy of your own kitchen. Free recipe cards are provided. For the carb-averse, Spuntini has its own rotisserie oven and their rotisserie chicken is tender, juicy and perfectly cooked. Half a chicken costs $98, with a plate of veggies. Their U.S. ribeye, grilled to order, is also great value for money ($62 for a 100g portion).
Shop A, G/F, 4-6 St. Francis St., 2528-1060.