Celebrating its 30th birthday, this unique Singapore resort island keeps reinventing itself. By Sim Sim Wissgott and June Lee.

It's hard to describe Sentosa. OK, it's an outlying island to the south of Singapore, just five minutes away by ferry—but what is it really? A theme park? A beach resort? A cultural or historical experience? It's all these things, with a touch of Disneyland thrown in for the kids. Even if you know that the island is watched over by a "Merlion" (yes, that's half-mermaid, half-lion) that shoots laser beams out of its eyes, Sentosa is not what you may think. For many of Singapore's 4.5 million people, it provides an escape from the city, a place where families can come to spend the weekend and take part in activities they won't find anywhere else. After 30 years, Sentosa can still be whatever you want it to be—that's its appeal.

Under the Sea
Like many other resort islands, water activities are de rigueur on Sentosa. One of the most popular attractions is Underwater World (80 Siloso Rd., 6275-0030), Singapore's largest oceanarium, opened in 1991. At the Wetlands you can hold a starfish in your hands, play with the fishes at the Touch Pool, or find marine creatures you never knew existed in Singapore, such as playful small-clawed otters. Various aquariums contain some very fat and ugly eels, as well as shark eggs. After sunset, arm yourself with a flashlight and discover the beauty of nocturnal marine life in the new Night Ocean program. But Underwater World's indisputable highlight is an 83-meter-long transparent acrylic tunnel through a giant aquarium populated by enormous fish, evil-looking sharks and blanket-sized stingrays. Certified divers may feed the sharks (we said feed, not be fed to) or swim with a playful dugong called Gracie.

More frolicsome activities can be had at Dolphin Lagoon (Palawan Beach, 6275-0030). Although this is not quite Sea World, the pink dolphins here put on several shows a day, waving, jumping and flipping their tails to the delight of the spectators on the beach. Never mind that similar shows in Florida and California are larger in scale and conception—this bit pleases tourists and families without fail. With a bit of luck, you may be picked to touch a dolphin.

Jeepers Creepers
If you're wondering just how interesting a butterfly park and insect museum can be, check that cynicism at the door. Be enchanted by the winged beauties at Butterfly Park (51 Cable Car Rd., 6275-0013), where a misty outdoor conservatory allows you to get close to over 1,500 live specimens from over 50 species. Fancy yourself tougher than Animal Planet's Crocodile Hunter? Then play with a real scorpion at the Insect Kingdom (51 Cable Car Rd., 6275-0013), where an impressive collection of multi-limbed bugs, beetles and other creepy crawlies will send shivers down the spines of the not-so-brave. And beside Insect Kingdom lies the Nature Walk/Dragon Trail. Don't worry—you're unlikely to encounter the majority of the bugs you just saw at Insect Kingdom. Three easy hiking trails, which last up to 15 minutes, bring you to see "dragon bones" (faux fossils to thrill children) and stunning views of the island.

Also, beginning this month, the water jets, lasers and underwater lights of the famed Musical Fountain Show are replaced by Sentosa's new Dance of Fire and Water Show (Monorail Station 1). Designed by the people responsible for the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1998 World Cup in France, as well as other events in Portugal, China, Japan and the US, this promises to be a breathtaking spectacle featuring water geysers and pyrotechnics. The 20-minute show also stars an actor interacting with a computer-animated character on a large water screen.

Sun and Sand
There's no need to travel far from Singapore to find a tropical paradise. At Sentosa the beaches look like the ones you see in travel brochures, with long stretches of powdery white sand surrounded by picturesque palm trees and clear blue water. Apart from sunbathing you can rent a kayak, play beach volleyball or windsurf at any of the three beaches, Siloso Beach, Palawan Island or Tajong Beach. Alternatively, kick back and relax at the snack bars and pubs you'll find here. Get yourself a cold beer from Mahalo Hawaiian Beach Bar (Siloso Beach, 6274-2378) or Sunset Bay (Siloso Beach, 6272-4838), which also hosts a foam party every first Saturday of the month. Now that Sentosa has become a favorite venue for these sorts of things, the fun truly doesn't stop when the sun goes down.

Then and Now
Built in the 1880s by the British, Fort Siloso (Monorail Station 3, 1800-736-8672) is the only preserved coastal fortification in Singapore and was used as a prisoner-of-war camp during the Japanese occupation. Learn about the day-to-day life of soldiers at the fort through its permanent exhibition, complete with cannons, reproductions of original artifacts and sound effects. (If you happen to run into an armed British soldier, don't worry - it's just a mannequin.) Visit the kitchen, ammunition magazine and barracks; explore the three tunnel networks that run under the fort; or survey Sentosa's surroundings from the top of the hill, from which vantage point the British defenders kept an eye out for invaders. The realistic sound effects of screaming generals and detonating cannons coming from the battery post will transport you back in time and probably scare unsuspecting passing tugboats. History buffs should visit the Special Operations building, which houses exhibits on the Japanese occupation of Singapore and the history of Fort Siloso after World War II.

A one-stop cultural bank, Images of Singapore (Monorail Station 4) houses the sights and sounds of Singapore, past and present. Step alongside the Pioneers of Singapore for a brief history lesson and introduction to historical figures such as Sir Stamford Raffles. Walk through the Surrender Chambers to experience the fall of Singapore during World War II. Chinese, Indian and Malay cultures come alive in the Festivals of Singapore montage, where high-tech gadgetry and well-conceptualized displays make this a great look at the different cultures of the city.

Way Up High
The 37-meter-tall Merlion (Merlion Walk, 6275-0388) stands high above Sentosa, providing beautiful views of Singapore and the surrounding islands. You can either walk up or take a lift right to the top. Of the two viewing decks, the head, with its 360-degree vista, is the more impressive, especially on a clear day. The deck at the mouth of the Merlion is better suited for rainy days—you'll stay dry here.

For more breathtaking views, ride the cable car that runs from Sentosa to
Mount Faber, stopping at the World Trade Center on the way. A special glass cabin lets you see even more, with glass panels on all sides and the bottom of the cabin—we cannot emphasize enough that this is not recommended for passengers who are scared of heights. For everyone else, don't miss this opportunity to admire the city while suspended in air—way, way above the sea.

Big Bites
Dining options on Sentosa include more than just the usual fast food. When hunger pangs strike, hit these spots.

Specialty noodle house mian (Rasa Sentosa Resort, 101 Siloso Rd., 6275-0100) offers a relaxed beachside hut where you can slurp braised duck soup noodles without missing out on the action at Siloso Beach. We also recommend the crispy fried noodles, Yang Zhou fried rice and Malay-style chicken wings—all at more than palatable prices, from S$10 for a bowl of noodles.

 Steword's Riverboat (6271-2002) and its blazing lights provide a grand sight
at night, and this place isn't just a curiosity. This decked-out boat serves up hearty Tex-Mex fare right by the Ferry Terminal.

The Terrace Restaurant (The Beaufort, 2 Bukit Manis Rd., 6275-0331) is one of the more elegant restaurants on Sentosa, so make sure you're appropriately attired for a meal here. Fill up on their decadent buffet spreads for breakfast and lunch. If you're having dinner, go alfresco to catch the sunset. The restaurant dishes up Western and local fare.

What's a seaside village without seafood? Patronize Fisherman's Village Seafood Restaurant (#01-08, 10 Garden Ave., 6276-9595) for all-time local favorites such as chili crabs, fried prawns and steamed fish. On weekends you can even fish for your own dinner at the nearby kelong (pond).