The buzz:  In a neighborhood already crowded with tapas bars, Tapeo distinguishes itself by being the only one where the dining room is wrapped around the open kitchen.

The décor: Rooted bar seats only. All customers are seated around a bar that encircles the open kitchen and the chefs. The décor is sleek with shiny silver cooking equipment taking center stage.

The drinks: Surprise! There’s no sangria on the menu! Fearing that customers will order sangria almost by default, Tapeo has decided to take it off the menu so that customers can have the chance to appreciate their exclusively Spanish wine list, as well as a selection of cava and sherries.

The food: The first thing you might notice is a giant leg of ham sitting on the kitchen counter. Using Andalusian pigs fed only on acorns, this bellota-quality ham (also known as pata negra) is highly prized and there is a large selection to pick from, from 36-month-old ham to a chorizo made from this exclusive porker. Other tapas (all meant to be shared between two) include prawns, a very tender grilled chicken served on a bed of red pepper and garlic sauce, and grilled lamb with mojo verde.

Why you’ll come back: The placemat menus, handwritten descriptions on tiled walls and a friendly chef all make for a truly welcoming and casual atmosphere. And it’s probably as close to a friendly local tapas place as we’re going to get in Hong Kong.

19 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3171-1989.