Siu Lam Kung was once a Sheung Wan staple for traditional Cantonese cuisine—until it was closed sometime in 1990s. So we were a little shocked when we found its reincarnation recently at a rather unfortunate location on Connaught Road (facing a giant flyover and the hideous Shun Tak Centre) but we’re glad we found it. Famous for making long-lost dishes that only your parents had a chance to taste when they were young, Siu Lam Kung should be applauded merely for bringing the tradition forward. We ordered all of their signature dishes, but a word of warning here—almost none of the dishes are what their names suggest. First of all, there is the “money chicken,” which is technically not chicken but cha siu (barbecue pork), grilled chicken liver and marinated fatty pork (called the “icy meat”)—really not that many people are still doing this dish even in Guangdong and the one we had in Siu Lam Kung is one of the best we’ve had by far. It is succulent, flavorful, aromatic, and has that rare good kind of oily taste throughout. Also bearing a confusing name is the Zhongshan-style kung fu tea, which is not a cup of tea, but a Chinese-style dobin mushi—soup served in a teapot. Meanwhile, the “penguin chicken” is, well, really fried chicken—but it is served vertically on a metal stick (hence the name). The chicken skin is crispy while the meat is tender. If you’re looking for a twist to your next Chinese meal, trek a little northwest to Siu Lam Kung.