Hutong - There’s no debate; this celeb favorite is gorgeous. With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in an upscale northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342.

A La Umai
A la Umai is a Japanese-French restaurant atop an unlikely looking commercial building with perhaps the best harbor view in the city: Central to the left and Tsim Sha Tsui to the right. The restaurant makes the most of its location with dim lights and plenty of sleek black. But what impressed us more was the food: the mentaiko (marinated fish roe) salad was fresh and delicious, and the 360-day grain-fed steak from Australia was a juicy, perfectly cooked slab of beefy heaven. 25/F, Morecrown Commercial Building, 108 Electric Rd., Tin Hau, 2234-6628.


Café Deco Bar & Grill
The most famous view in town and consistently good food to boot. It’s a huge place: 15,000 square feet on two floors, linked by a spiral staircase. Indulge at the oyster bar, book a window table for the full East-West a la carte experience, order dessert from the Italian bar, or simply have a drink surrounded by a collection of authentic art deco cocktail shakers. 1-2/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111.

Felix
Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor and famous bathrooms, thanks to the view from the gents. The small, space-age bar is great for pre- or post-dinner cocktails. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free—thanks to a no under-12s policy—with some amazing fusion dishes.
28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3188.

Oyster & Wine Bar
The plush atmosphere and commanding harbor view is interrupted only by a brief Tourism Bureau voiceover when the Symphony of Lights starts nightly at 8:15pm. Otherwise it’s a study in elegance and old-school glitz, seemingly forever suspended in “Miami Vice” cool. If it’s a mighty fish you’re after, you won’t go wanting with the revolving seasonal menu. And ask for a table by the window for an evening out you won’t soon forget. 18/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-1111.

Tott’s
What blew us away at Tott’s (besides the sophisticated décor and harbor-view seats, that is) were the main courses, modest portions that put a focus on good cooking over conceited presentation, and left us feeling sated without any sense of gluttony. Tott’s deserves an extra star on the strength of its service alone: our waiter was polite, attentive and ready with recommendations, but in no way overbearing. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay,
2837-6786.

Petrus
This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The decor is opulent—think chateau chic, with crystal chandeliers and swags of curtains, but with stunning views of the harbor—and the ambiance luxurious, hushed and formal. The food is French haute cuisine, with no fusion flourishes or contemporary re-imaginings, and the ingredients are flown in from France. There are more than 1,000 choices on the wine list, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. Jacket required. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8590.

10 Chancery Lane Gallery - Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com.

Arch Angel Art Gallery
One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2845-425, art@archangelart.com.hk.

Art Beatus
Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 35 Graham St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com.

Asia Fine Art
Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Burma for sale on site and online. 12 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

The Cat Street Gallery
Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2544-6223, www.thecatstreetgallery.com.

Galerie du Monde
Established in 1974, Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

Gallery on Old Bailey
Promoting contemporary Chinese fine arts, this gallery exhibits the work of well-established artists in a variety of styles, namely realism, surrealism, still-lifes, portraiture and modern abstraction. It has an exhibition program and provides advice to corporate clients. B/F & G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2869-7122, www.galleryonoldbailey.com.

GOCA
Gallery of Contemporary Arts, “GOCA” as it’s known, presents internationally acclaimed Chinese artists and prominent emerging talents with unique work and creative styles. Offering the very best in research and services, GOCA is a widely recognized source for quality and value. 85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554, www.goca-arts.com.

Grotto Fine Art
Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local Chinese artists exclusively, with a particular interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and conceptual installation pieces. 2/F, 31C Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.

Hanart TZ Gallery
A leading specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture and photography by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 202 Henley Building, 5 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.

J. Gallery
Showcasing modern and contemporary American and Chinese artists, J. Gallery has hosted solo and collaborative exhibitions by such internationally renowned artists as Andy Warhol, Luo Zhongli, Chang Qing and Dale Chihuly. ME 10-12, The Peninsula, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-9062, www.jgallery.com.hk.

Kaleidoscope Kreations
This gallery focuses on visual art by Hong Kong-based artists who work in a variety of media, including painting, photography, video, sculpture, murals and print. By appointment only. 4B Lloyds Commercial Centre, 8 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2861-3317, www.kaleidoscopekreations.com.

Karin Weber Gallery
Organizing exhibitions of established and rising Asian artists, Karin Weber carries a comprehensive selection of works in oil, acrylic, watercolor, pastels, gouache, ink on paper and mixed media. G/F, 20 Aberdeen St., Central, 2544-5004, www.karinwebergallery.com.

Kwai Fung Hin Art Gallery
Located in a sophisticated two-story space, Kwai Fung Hin has held a number of major exhibitions to promote contemporary European artists. Also has an affiliate consultancy service for hotels, resorts, clubhouses, offices and residences. G/F, 20 Ice House St., Central, 2580-0058, www.kwaifunghin.com.

Picture This
The city’s largest affordable-art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Will also frame your old, fragile artwork. Suite 603, 6/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Zee Stone Gallery
Established in 1991, Zee Stone exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China working in both Chinese ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. G/F, Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Tivo - With that economic crap-storm still swirling, it looks like we’re missing out on the true spirit of Christmas this year—shopping! No, this year, we’re stuck with boring ol’ togetherness. You may as well make the best of it. Get three or four friends together at Tivo for some mulled wine. You’re sure to see a few more friends passing by, or just grab some strangers and make some new ones. ‘Tis the season.
43-45 Wyndham St., Central, 2116-8055

Peak Bar
It’s cold and it’s practically Christmas. Grab a
glass of the Peak Bar’s traditional mulled wine for a mere $50. Red wine, brandy, cinnamon, cloves, apple, lemon peel and orange all included.
9-13 Shelley St., SoHo, 2140-6877

FINDS
Get your glogg on here. No, it’s not one of the lesser-known hobbits, it’s the Scandinavian version of mulled wine heated and spiced with similar ingredients to the mulled stuff we all know and love, though often with the added touch of almonds and raisins. Tastes like cider!
2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2522-9318

Living Room - The recently opened W Hotel in West Kowloon has put its bar next to the check in area and called it the Living Room. While the super-high ceiling and vast windows might not feature in most Hong Kong abodes, W has tried to install homely details into the otherwise luxurious bar, including magazine racks, comfy couches, books and chess sets. The final outcome? It’s chic but cozy, and has interesting new cocktails every season.
6/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3717-2222.

Room One
The old Miramar Hotel’s successful transformation into The Mira—a Hotel Babylon-esque boutique property—owes much to its new bar, Room One. It’s in a class of its own, with stylish décor, with cool tunes, a sultry purple palate and swoon-inducing lighting. It serves classy drinks including super-yummy sake cocktails, and the booths along one side of the wall also give a little privacy for late-night conversations.
G/F, The Mira, 118-103 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5888.

Zaza
A gigantic, modern retro-style club located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, Zaza is a great spot to stop by for a drink before or after a meal at one of the fine Japanese restaurants housed in the same building. The décor screams luxury and space, with two bars and chandeliers dripping with crystals. Head to the outdoor terrace with its green patio if you’d like some fresh air—this is the time of year for alfresco drinks.
3/F, Toy House, 100 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3171-8311.

The Barn - Despite the seemingly endless flurry of new lounges and bistros opening in Causeway Bay, the district’s diverse nightlife scene would be amiss without its classic sports pubs. Complete with rackety dice games, dirt-cheap beer and a jukebox that sounds like it hasn't been updated since the 80s, few joints better characterize this breed of affectionately quaint watering holes than The Barn does. Whether you’re there to catch the game, or just a quiet after-work wind down, the chatty staff, unassuming crowd and friendly atmosphere offer a much-needed respite from the conceits of Central.
44-48 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2504-3987

Dickens Bar
Named after the English novelist, Dickens Bar is almost as much of a classic as the Victorian author himself. Housed in the basement of the Excelsior, an address it's occupied since the hotel’s opening in 1973, the venue has long been a regular stomping ground for dedicated sports fans. Its timbered walls are adorned with autographed memorabilia that includes Ian Botham’s cricket bat and Boris Becker’s tennis racket. With rare pints imported from the UK and amazing curry lunch buffets, Dickens is not to be missed.
LG/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2837-6782

Inn Side Out
Sports, a Reuben, a beer and a big screen—what more could you ask for? How about the freedom to toss your empty peanut shells on the floor like you just don’t give a damn? Great for watching the game, this vast yet perpetually packed establishment is a magnet for footy fans. It’s also a popular haunt for the after-work crowd, so you’ll have to get there early if you want snag a seat on the open-air patio. Factor in the great location and distinctively large selection of microbrews, and it’s easy to see why Inn Side Out is something of an institution in these parts.
G/F, Sunning Plaza, 10 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2895-2900

The Peak Lookout - Don’t we all have a friend or two visiting soon, now that the weather is cooler? If they are first-timers, you can’t escape a trip up to The Peak. Bring them over for a drink at this prime spot with an excellent view. They’ll complain about how hazy everything looks from up here but still take hundreds of pictures. Check out the classic bar area before enjoying the cool alfresco air.
121 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-1000.

Yun Fu
If The Peak is all “seen it, done it” with your crowd, bring them to this dungeon-style basement on Wyndham Street, which combines modern design with the architectural features of a Chinese village house. Order the Chinese wine cocktails for a classy local experience. It’s on Wyndham, so it’s the perfect spot to kick-start your night-long touristy bar-hopping experience, either downhill or up.
B/F, 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 2116-8855.

Balalaika
Okay, so it’s Russian, but the ice room in Balalaika is almost an institution in itself. Drag yourself into the freezer for a shot or two of vodka—or maybe a quick sobering-up. It’s also ideal for sharing embarrassing, drunken Lan Kwai escapades, as well as planning new ones that your visitors will remember and take home with them.
M/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3579-2929.

ThirtySevenPlus - Discreet location? Check. Secret code to get in? Check. Intimate alleyway? Check. High vaulted ceiling? Check. A handsome, inviting bar and vintage furniture with character? Check check. We love coming out to this (almost) mysteriously hidden and charming venue. The wine coolers are to die for and the place is so tastefully furtive even lesbians frequent here.
B/F, 37 Staunton St., Central, 2526-6766.

Volume
It’s a shockingly purple, flashy and kitschy, yet cozy escape from patriarchal culture. Well-placed mirrors are perfect for preening, and the long bar’s great for after-hour cocktails and cruising. Volume pumps it up as a late-night hotspot with diva dance tunes, camp 80s mash-ups and Happy House. Two years old now, the boite’s still going strong and definitely earning its place as a gay mainstay in Hong Kong, courtesy of their highly popular and scandalously fun “New Arrival Wednesdays,“ which means free vodka before 9:30pm.
LG/F, 83-85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2857-7683,
www.volume.com.hk.

Propaganda
An exorbitant cover charge is enforced by the legendary door bitch Ricardo, who rolls his eyes at you while telling you to line the eff up, but do we mind? After copious drinks at Volume, not really. The epicenter of gayness in Central, all homo sapiens and their fag hags flock here to end a hot mess of a night. Straight DJs mean uplifting trance, hard house and only the occasional gay anthem, but straight-up shots mean the seductively sunken dance floor and inviting poles drive the butchest of gym bunnies to violate the rules of traditional masculinity, take their tops off and boogie the night away.
B/F, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-1316.

Home - The new Home (formerly Homebase) is alive and kicking in its new basement location. The luxuriously cozy late-night lounge is designed, as the name suggests, to make you feel right at home—if your home has a pole for dancing, that is. This new iteration is a little swankier than you might remember it: now mostly hip-hop free, with boutique champagne and wine lists, the new Home is a classier way to end the night—even if your night ends in the morning—as Home closes at 9am every day.
LG/F, Au’s Building, 17-19 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2537-1000.

Buddha Lounge
Dirty and decadent, Buddha Lounge is often seen as one of the better chill-out spots in the area, ideal for a quiet drink with friends. But come the wee hours, the mild-mannered lounge transforms itself into a hard-hitting, bass-thumping boite, with owner and head barman Pawan Rai keeping the drinks coming till well into the morning, or even noon sometimes. It’s cramped, particularly on weekends, but with friendly staff and a spirited vibe, it’s sure to be a fun night. Especially when they do Bhangra and Bollywood.
L/G Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2526-2562.

The Bridge
With reality and the sun looming brutally on the horizon, how better to finish off a great night than with “just one more drink” behind the shutters of The Bridge. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, this den of iniquity serves up some surprisingly delicious Filipino and British classics (yes, even if you’re sober) like chicken adobo, comforting congee or bangers and mash. The banging jukebox tunes go well with that hangover.
93-107 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2865-5586.

Carnegies - Sure, your stock portfolio might be a shadow of its former self, and your net worth certainly isn’t what it used to be, but with its cut-rate drink deals, this Wan Chai institution is sure to see you through even the worst of crises. Head down between 9pm and 11pm on a Friday for some $10 Coronas, or spend your Black Tuesdays sipping on free vodka mixers, that’s right, FREE vodka mixers, from 10pm to 11pm. Better yet, vocalize those portfolio blues on Sunday’s music night, with free drinks for all participants from 9pm onwards.
53 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-6289.

Fevar
This mid-size Lan Kwai boîte might not be as well known as the usual suspects, but if you’re looking for somewhere a little easier on the wallet, Fevar is right on the money. The club offers unlimited-drink deals from 10pm to 2am for just $200 on Fridays and Saturdays, and a mere $100 on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. There’s also a daily happy hour through the week, with standard drinks and snacks priced at just $28 each between 5:30pm and 10:30pm.
4/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2525-3933.

Swindlers
Nothing to fear than fear itself, eh? Well how about a giant 30-drink cocktail platter? A menacing thought perhaps, but priced at just $300, it’s a penny pincher’s delight, ideal for a night on the firewater with your equally cash-strapped colleagues. And if you’re looking for a quick one after work, grab yourself a bloody mary or vodka-Red Bull between 5:30pm and 9:30pm on weekdays for just $30, with complimentary snacks included.
Shop B, 33 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2520-5101.

Spasso - With the temperature dropping, nothing beats a cocktail under the not-so-hot sun at Spasso. The Italian restaurant/bar on the rooftop of Ocean Centre is a great spot to stop by for a relaxing drink after a day-long shopping spree in the mall. Get a glass of bubbly, choose from a long list of Italian wines to cool down, or try the their special chili chocolate martini if you’d rather warm up.
Unit 403, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-8027.

Pier 7
For a view of the other side of the harbor, visit the brand-new Pier 7 on the roof of the Star Ferry Pier. With a large patio and a unique view of the Central skyscrapers and harbor, it’s a swanky but relaxing spot and a perfect mid-range option for outlying islanders waiting for their ferry home.
Shop M, Roof Viewing Deck, Central Pier 7 (Star Ferry), Central, 2167-8153.

The Pawn
Have a quiet drink and watch the world go by at The Pawn. The modern British restaurant has tables all along their outdoor balcony, where you can enjoy fresh air and the infrequent ding-ding sounds made by the trams passing by. Try the wide selection of ales on tap for a manly, beery evening, or a smooth Domaine de Canton French ginger liqueur with soda.
62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.